New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park

[slhughes]

allright people? i was just out online living vicariously, so i thought i'd let you do the same. new route at a new(ish) cliff is the news here:

the cliff, primarily developed, or resuscitated by c.mooorhead is located in MURRIN. walk as to PET WALL, branch right, walking underneath LAKESIDE-IN-THE-WOODS, past MASSES ARE ASSES, past REACHAROUND and you pop out at a rather spectacular 25metre cliff, i believe is now named QUERCUS WALL. several lines have been completed, by c.moooorhead, i believe. these include the oracle - a great 12a gear line in the middle of the wall and the vorpal sword, a bolted face route, at about 12d. there are are other projects on the go by others. please, should you visit, heed the red tag-get off ma focking land-pro-jects. you never know what manner of indiana jones domino effects might be triggered. know what i mean?

my new route however, is open to traffic-
THE MAN FROM DEL MONTE 5.12(c?) takes the obvious right leaning finger crack, over a small roof. A left trending ramp is reached and followed to the crux groove, continuing up the sustained wall above to a two bolt anchor (the only bolts on the route). FA: Stewart Hughes April 2012. (thanks for the belay jer)

this route was climbed as are most climbs in the land of ethics- with double ropes, no chalk, an oversize potty helmet, lots of wires, some modern gear scrounged from the belayer, faith in arms given by generations of manual welsh labourers and a can of beans for lunch. (you pick out the truths)

it is of course, of top quality. anyone who says any different, best just move on to say... fern hill. in summation: the crag is great, the route is great, the other routes look great. everyone is great. (apart from the billions under the poverty line, like the workers depending on the man from del monte's god-nod of approval) ' ...HE SAY YESSSS!'

[JSmith]

Just want to back up Stewart on this one. This wall is really, really good. Really.

[squamish climber]

Sounds like some great (hard) gear routes and sport. Someone take a camera out there next time and post some shots of the crag.

[Dru]

This sounds location wise like it is the old Lost in Obscurity crag. Is there a crack to a 5.9 slab "ending at the highest outcrop" (that you can see from the highway, after coming thru Dynamite Alley and rounding the bend heading north) at the south end of the cliff ?

[slhughes]

no

[Brendan]

And for the first time in history....Dru is wrong. Wow.

[Jeff Thomson]

Dru, you are very close to right. If you head basically straight back into the forest from the top of "Lost in Obsurity", you will walk right into this Quercus wall. So technically it is not the same wall but very close by.

[Dru]

OK, thanks Jeff.
Last time I was at Lost in Obscurity was around 10 yrs ago. At that time there were a bunch of projects on the go there with bolts and fixed ropes etc. but I never have seen them written up anywhere?

[Peter]

I'll add a new route, don't have a name for it yet. But it's the fully bolted thing, between the gear madness. Consensus seems to be 12b (depending how you do it, as always. (FA P.Winter, 2012)

[dakine]

We hit up this new wall on sunday and it is a thing of beauty!
If you haven't gone there yet stop reading this and go. We climbed the 10d, 10c, 11a (trad), as a warm up and sent Peter's amazing new route ( a prince among thieves 12b). Spectacular climbing in a very scenic setting.
Go... Go now.