Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

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John Harvey
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Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by John Harvey » Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:38 pm

Four months of chainsawing, digging and scrubbing has re-cleaned the whole wall adding three new routes to the existing six. Starting Right of main crack "Dugh!" - as follows;
- Cabin Boys - 5.10.D Not only the coolest flake in town but a great overhanging cave exit 25 M up at 10.A An appropriate climb for the title track.
- Irie Ites - 5.10.A Rastafarian for "everything is cool up on the heights" with a bolt protected mantel that will work you.
- Chainsaw Massacre - 5.10.D Direct start is fully onto the giant flake. In dry conditions, one can lieback the flake as an easier alternative.

The other six routes are rated 5.8, 5.9, two 10.A's and two 10.B's. Enjoy the office!
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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by squamish climber » Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:57 am

Hey John,

Nicely done, I was walking the loop trail on last Saturday and you could actually see Cabin Boys from the trail and the sun was shinning on it. I think this will be a huge improvement, I recall it always seemed kind of damp and cool over there.

Thanks for your hard work. I want to try climbing that flake.

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by gnarnaphobe » Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:49 pm

Nice work John!

Epic first post :p
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by Lurch » Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:32 pm

Nice work John. Saw you scrubbing when we were at Crag X the other day then went up to say hi after but you had allready left.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by natsdad » Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:26 pm

Hi John,

Nice job with this crag. We met you there yesterday and climbed the left-most four climbs. Very enjoyable climbing. I hope CBO gets lots of visits.

Steve

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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by joeljacques1 » Sat May 19, 2012 8:19 pm

Thanks for the scrubbing and pruning. Great to have another mid-difficulty option in the Bluffs. Did Irie Ites the other day - fun flake line, and nice and sunny. The texture of the rock is great, and the cleaning job was really well done. Thanks for the hard work.

Joel.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by squamish climber » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:15 pm

Climbed here on Sunday ( June 10). Nice job on the crag John, even the trail was well built with good steps where needed.

We climbed Duh 5.8 a nice little layback start until you get into the crack. A red Alien to slot into a horizontal crack is handy to protect the bottom moves, otherwise it's a bit of a ways until you can get you're first pro in - but easy climbing. From there it's nice crack jamming to the top.

This is Hevy about half-way up
Image

We also climbed Ire Ites - Cool name Ire - as John said is Jamican Rastafari. I found Ire means ultimate quality. Another defn using the google says ire ites means supreme joy. Both apply here. This flake is very cool. I would differ a little with the bolt protection to get past the mantle. If you blow it getting a foot on the ledge, there's the potential to hit the pointy flake, if the belayer is not careful.

Here's a picture of the bottom of the route
Image
The bolt you see here on the right is on the route Chainsaw Massacre
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When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

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Re: Smoke Bluffs CABIN BOYS OFFICE is officially open.

Post by scrubber » Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:32 am

Looks fantastic John. Thanks for all the hard work. We thought about opening it up back when we climbed Wet Dream, but didn't have the grand vision of the crag that you did. Well done. I can't wait to check it out.

Kris

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