First, I regret to announce my retirement from route development in Squamish. Over the past 5 years, I've established or cleaned about 60 pitches. I've thoroughly enjoyed myself and, like Hevy, feel lucky to have been a part of Squamish's second Golden Era. I hope that my efforts have created enjoyable and memorable experiences. My last route could have been called "Movin' to Manitoba". Work calls. Folks, it's been a blast.
Second, allow me to introduce two new Diggers: George and Cyrus. They put in a ton of work into the new route (announced below) and are Diggers to look out for in the future. Tip of the hat to the fellas. Nathalie, Renee, Martin, and Jay also did great work on this project.
Third, the new route is called Rambles. It's 4 pitches and 5.8. It starts about 60m from the Apron Parking Lot and might have the shortest approach to a multipitch in Squamish. Rambles is a great first multipitch, with well-protected, short cruxes, and varied climbing. It also makes for great access to the Diedre area climbs. Imagine a 10 pitch 5.8 route. Imagine no longer. Enjoy it.
download a topo
Pitch 1 starts up a 5.6 groove
The 5.7 crux of the pitch is a face move past a bolt
then a little padding to the anchor
Pitch 2 moves right along an easy crack.
the pitch ends with two short 5.7 cruxes
Pitch 3 rambles upwards past 5 bolts
Pitch 4 tackles a short, steep headwall. The route goes out right at 5.8. A variation (10b) goes straight up the overhanging corner.
leaving the slab, entering the crux
finishing the crux
New routes on the Apron are rare -- looks like a great easy moderate and one that's bound to see a lot of traffic.
Glad to hear you're passing the torch to some motivated diggers. You're going to be missed but long remembered.
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb
(And I don't believe for a second that this will be the last route you develop in Squamish!)
I think one of us will find a route to name Movin' to Manitoba this summer in your honor.
I'm sorry to hear that you're not gonna stick around.
Have a great time in Manitoba!
(What's the climbing like there????)
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