funny to name drop Royal Robbins when we are talking about Murrin, a crag minutes from the parking lot and mere steps from a picnic beach.joeljacques1 wrote:That argument was really lame. bolting cracks? are you crazy? Ive never read anything so ridiculous. Royal Robbins and other pioneers created ethics that make the sport what it is. If you aren't interested in the history or don't care you are not really a climber. Oh, and by the way the pioneers of the sport climbed 2000' routes of up to 5.9 with hiking boots, stoppers and hemp ropes. If you want to be a trad climber or a climber at all buy some nuts and go get some air under your feet.
The choice i hope developers make is to create routes people will climb. I imagine that this route would not get climbed as much if most moderate climbers knew that they would need a piece of gear on a climb in an area that is all bolted, afaik.
We did that "in-between" line last night, after doing "In the Firing Line". It felt like hard 5.10 or easy 5.11, and not that fun. Also, it does not have its' own anchor, you need to go to one to the right or left, which makes cleaning it awkward.
"In the Firing Line" is really fun. Good, thoughtful moves, solid gear placements and reasonable bolts higher up. Thanks to Smallman for putting that up. I'm looking forward to trying his other route "Staples of the Gluten Intolerant", next time I'm at that crag.
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