Cypress new climbs.

Check here for new routes information. Post new routes here.
Uncle Rico
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2011 7:55 pm

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by Uncle Rico » Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:39 am

Good Point Dru... a few of the maillons there are a little rusty, what do you suggest? I figure they'll just get replaced from time to time. RW

Dru
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Chillidog

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by Dru » Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:39 am

Those stainless steel permadraws might be a good idea, because once a maillon gets a certain degree of rusty it can be almost impossible to unscrew when you try and replace.

dakine
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:20 am
Location: burnaby

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by dakine » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:58 am

This is where most of the perma draws come from. If the Mallions are rusted shut you can hacksaw them off pretty easily. I switched out the old nylon draws on Cut to the chase a few years back and had to cut most of them off. I suppose a cordless grinder would work too but with all that water i'd be worried about a dunking.

http://www.climbtechgear.com/cable-draw ... e-or-gray/
DJ 1%

ras
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri May 05, 2006 12:05 pm

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by ras » Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:57 pm

I'm having trouble finding the current topos for knucklehead and tombstomb, where are they?

potato
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2015 1:08 pm

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by potato » Thu Jun 25, 2015 11:53 am

ras wrote:I'm having trouble finding the current topos for knucklehead and tombstomb, where are they?

check out on http://projectclimb.com/D998EC692B0DA32 ... Falls.aspx

natsdad
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:56 pm
Location: East Van

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by natsdad » Thu Jul 07, 2016 12:57 pm

Hey folks:

Quick report. Went to explore these new climbs after work yesterday and found dry, cool stone and great climbs. The Knucklehead formation was in good shape (but could use more traffic to combat the green machine). We did the two moderate crack climbs ( 5.9 & 5.8 ) and they were both fun, well protected routes. One bit of beta: when approaching the top of the climbs look for a big (fir?) tree on a point jutting out, and behind the tree are some black painted chains for rappelling. You have to look very carefully to find them.

Many thanks to Rolf and others who discovered and equipped these lines. (Tombstone was not possible to climb from the creekbed up - needs more time for the creek level to drop further.)

Steve

natsdad
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:56 pm
Location: East Van

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by natsdad » Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:50 am

Update to last post:

Creek level is now (just barely) low enough for climbing at the Tombstone.

On 8/12/16 climbed Undertaker - after exiting roof, there is an "X" marked in chalk on left side of crack (and this is marked in red on the photo). That is a loose block that should be removed with a crowbar. However, just above it (also forming the left side of the crack) the rock shifts slightly - and does not support gear placements - I found out the hard way (this is marked in blue on the photo). If visiting, consider bringing trundling tools and do so on rappel. When leading, place good gear just before exiting roof as the next good placement will be a bit further up the crack.

Image

Also climbed Headstone. I thought a #4 Camalot would have been handy just below anchors. A brick-sized rock broke off lower down. Helmets advised for climbers and belayers. Fun route though...might be harder than 5.8 if you're short.

cheers,
Steve

Uncle Rico
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2011 7:55 pm

Re: Cypress new climbs.

Post by Uncle Rico » Wed Aug 17, 2016 11:19 am

I had the same experience climbing Undertaker a few weeks ago. I was quite surprised to pull around the roof and stand up on the large juggy flake when the entire flake shifted several inches underfoot. I thought I was going to pull out completely with me standing on it. Presumably this is the sort of loosening that occurs with freeze/thaw cycles.

In it's current state, this route should be avoided until someone takes some tools down there and removes the flake. There're some sizeable blocks there that are inevitably going to come off soon, and hurt someone. Bit of a shame because those flakes are super fun to climb on. Be aware..

Rich Wheater

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests