West Van climbing

[rolfr]

I have been working some new routes (10) in West Vancouver this last year. Mixed gear and bolts 5.8 to 5.12 on two crags coming out of a small river canyon about 20 meters high.

I found the cliffs after curiosity got the better of me and I hiked up the stream bed last summer. The area above the river is a rabbits warren of trails used by locals and dog walkers, the river itself is also popular as a beginners canyoneering route.

I was down there today placing bolts on one of the two sport only routes when a middle aged man (like me) comes hiking up the stream with his dog(off leash). He sees me and immediately say “ what are you doing, bolting in West Van, I’m a climber too but this is one of the last pristine areas in West Van and we don’t need a hoard of climbers rapping in and creating another climbing area! “ 
(Actually I placed the top anchors to make it difficult to top rope and tried to keep them inconspicuous. )

My response was to ask him if it is ok for one user group like canyoneers, and not ok for another user group, climbers, and that the greatest environmental impact is still from the hundreds of dogs which are allowed off leash above the canyon and sh#t everywhere!

We argued the issue of climbing routes impact to no consensus , with him maintaining that the area should be left alone. My final question to him was “ so it’s ok for you and your dog to hike in the stream, but after that, you want to close the door and deny everyone else access?”

West Vancouver has always had a very NIMBY attitude towards sharing the parks and resources, a very wealthy community which likes to maintain it’s exclusivity. But, I am also a 40 year North Shore resident who has created a successful and respected local business that contributes to the economy and pays considerably more than the average citizen in taxes. I appreciate and understand the environmental issues, but got pisssed off by his remarks that he would rather see the area as top roping only with no bolts. That argument didn’t strike me as environmentally based but rather as dictating personal preferences only.

I am not insensitive to the fact, that not all areas need to be climbed and may not post any info about the area , but I am also angered by his elitist attitude of limited discretionary access. I may be too close to this issue to be able to have an unbiased point of view, your thoughts please.

[raingod]

There are very few "pristine areas" on the North Shore, and I doubt this is one of them. And I agree that the problem is most likely Nimbyism.
Ron

[flounder]

Rolf, if your post is similar in tone to how you communicated with the other guy, I think you were being very fair and considerate. Good for you.

Sure seems like NIMBY to me - I agree with Ron about "pristine" being a bit silly for most of the North Shore, especially that close to houses.

Also, thanks for all the work you put into these routes. Hope to try them soon.

[Paul Greenwood]

I grew up in the cypress falls park area and think your efforts are great. The area is very far from being pristine with old and new logging roads, broken down cars in the river, dog sh*t everywhere and housing. Some of the folks living in the area are very narrow minded and need to be aware that it is a park, not private property until you reach the BP boundary. When I was in highschool we ran into a dangerous situation where a man was tearing down our bike trails and setting up unsafe obstacles so that we couldn't use them. People in that neighbourhood need to respect that others living there also use it for many activities other than dog walking and it is not just for their exclusive use. I look forward to trying out your new routes once they are done.

Thanks for everything you have done Rolf and keep up the good work.

Paul G

[Optimally-Primed]

Rolf,
Do you think this could become an access issue? (Would the local authorities restrict climbing, bolting, or route development?)
Or are you just trying to do the right thing?
Or both?
JF