Nina Hagen Photo
you must be such a hardman!
Although I am not one to normally give a specific grade (given my relatively long reach and all), I would say it’s pretty close to the given grade. Think about this climb compared to other .11- finger cracks you’ve done in Squamish and I'm sure you’d agree. The crux (not sure where it was, but we’ll say the part above the piton and the part surmounting the small roof above that) has great feet, and is just a little techy. It’s all there though and more of a head game than anything.Fish Boy wrote:Did anyone find The Gift (first pitch of RDW) kinda hard for 11a? I did.
If there were bolts all over that climb I’m sure Harry would have given it .10+
The only sh!tty part is the rope drag - it was miserable, even with long slings everywhere.
I agree that the route is a bit soft for the grades but I wouldn't go that far. I climbed Arrowroot (the left 10b of Rutabaga and Arrowroot; I always get them confused) immediately after and thought it was of similar difficulty to p2 and p3. I would give them a 10-.bearbreeder wrote:did it 2 weeks ago before i left for the rockies
excellent climbing but the grading is very soft IMO
p1 - 5.8 make sure you dont traverse too high
p2 - 5.9+ one slightly tricky move at the bulge, perfect gear, watch for drag, very similar to cider crack
p3 - 5.9 for the finger crack, one slightly tricky move
p4 - 5.10- for the finger crack, best pitch, think a more sustained/vertical p2 of skywalker with a finger lock and foot in crack with the right, and a stem/smear with the left
takes from blue TCU to #2 camalot ... extra finger sizes helpful but not needed if youre good with nuts ... #3 camalot can be placed right before the crux of p2 and somewhere on p4 finger crack var, but again not needed
Bearbreeder ya SANDBAGGER!
Having climbed it again this summer, I think it's probably reasonable compared to other climbs, though probably overgraded by a letter grade or so. If I had to call it I would say 5.8, 10b, 10a, 10b.
Definitely easier for me than Caboose.
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