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Standard rack gets you up. One 60m rope gets you down in 6 raps (4 long, 2 short), all off chains. Or TR some of the pitches you missed on the way down!
Here's a photo of the area from Nexen Beach. When you climb it, take some photos and post them here.
The bolts atop pitch 1 are nice, much better than the tree for sure! Lots of long slings are a good idea, I had 6.
I was kind of assuming the top of the second pitch would have bolts as well, thankfully the only two cams I had left after that 40m crux pitch was red and gold and they fit perfectly up there. I just dropped down to the ledge on the right below the 10c fingers.
That second pitch was AWESOME!
I took the the far right third pitch with the bolt and it was pretty spicy getting above the bolt to a tiny purple master cam, a little grey one would have been nice too. I enjoyed this pitch but for sure spicy, well for me.
Easy slippery unprotectable groove gets you to Staccato ledge from the belay atop this pitch.
I took your advice and took the final finger crack instead of that 10b chimney, and it was very nice climbing probably easier than it looks. Maybe not 10a though.
A 70m will NOT get you to the ground from Staccato ledge to bottom of pitch 2, you will have to down climb a bit. 27+ 8, why isnt this working hahaha
The belays dont offer many picture opportunities, the fun 5.9 first pitch.
there is even a stump or two for Anders to adventure climb around
A good place to reflect on your opinions of the gondola
A 70m rope would be nice and way safer, our 60m came up short on two of the raps.
from the last ledge, you can also walk left and do bullethead central, a 3* 5.11
And to top off the day you finish right at Corazon wall so you can add another pitch of .10+ face/slab to the mix.
P1 - OK
P2 - (10c middle option) Sustained above the roof, fun.
P3 - There was a fixed line in the stembox, so we opted for the middle crack. 10b? Short crux.
P4 - The 10c finger/hand splitter in a groove is absolutely classic. Lead this crack, and then TR the 10b thrutch like we did
Pro to #3 camalot, unless you want to lead the left thrutch option on P4 - in which case you'll want at least one #4.
What the visitor had to say about it:
Something Harry would make??
Something Harry would use!!
Good job, Harry.
We thought it started at bullethead ledge so we climbed Feeling Groovy 5.9 to get there. My partner had led it before so he offered me the lead, after a little consideration I declined.( I climbed fungus the bogeyman a couple weeks prior and it looked dirty.) So he sent it and I followed. I'm glad he did lead it because it was dirty, and the first anchor hangers are missing, so he linked both pitches and ran out the last 15m or so.
Then we hiked at bit left to what we thought was the start. We found the second pitch 10c. I looked at it and said "doesn't look 5.9?". I got on it and sure enough it wasn't 5.9. I was a little unsure of my cam in the roof and was missing some beta but I got another cam in above the roof and found the move. The rest of the pitch was very sustained. Excelent pitch. I elected to step right and setup a gear anchor at the base of the 10c. Finger crack, and when my partner came up we switched over to the rap station so he could have the gear.
My friend sent the next pitch and found it a little thin at the top. I concur and bailed trying a high step at the crux. Super fun pitch! Can't wait to lead it. We didn't have time for the last pitch but it sounds awesome. Can't wait to go back and do it again the right way!
Thanks for all the efforts Harry and team!
Thanks to all the scrubbers in the sea to sky!
P1: This pitch is so-so, its OK as a warm up but not something you'd return to climb on its own. Thought it was 5.8.
P2: Simply excellent....cool moves through the mini-roof and great finger locks after.
P3: We did the middle pitch ('10c' finger crack). Again an excellent pitch.
P4: Easy choice here...took the finger/hand crack and it was awesome. Great locks/jams for you right hand and nice little edges for your left foot.
Gear: Squamish rack to 3", and I'd recommend doubles in purple/green/red camalots.
Rating: On such a quality climb the ratings are almost irrevelant but fwiw I thought all 3 pitches were 10b. IMO neither of the pitches is harder than Apron Strings, Caboose, or the Split.
Major Kudos to the cleaners...this one is destined to be a classic.
BTW, has anyone tried the Rainy Day woman variations? They also look excellent....
Here's a shot of us heading up at the base of the first pitch. Thanks Tenn for the shot!
- Bullethead East Great Route!
- PeteNolanBulletheads.jpg (307.83 KiB) Viewed 8509 times
P1 was mostly dry
P2 (mini roof) was dry
P3 (finger crack) was dry
P4 (finger/hand) was very wet for the hands in the bottom of the corner, but the feet were dry.
I think the LH option on P4 was dry.
Be careful on the rap: the ropes tend to lay in the water running down climber's right of P3.
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