In an email the other day, Kevin McLane said that there are nearly 450 new climbs since the 2005 guide. That does not include the hundreds of pitches that have been retro'd. So taking that figure, it looks like around 100 new routes are established on average every year. Kevin and Andrew Boyd are working on a new guide for sometime next year -- can't wait. Kevin says there will be over 500 new climbs in the guide.
I thought it would be interesting to canvass people here what they think are the stellar new or retro'd crags and climbs from easy moderates up to extremely difficult.
I'll start off with some suggestions I've climbed very few of them but they're on my tick list or dream list. Chime in with a comment if you've climbed any of these or disagree or agree with the list.
Slab Alley (retro) - 6 p, 5.9 - nice varied climbing including a traverse, mantle, slab and the elephant steps).
Pineapple Peel (retro) - 3 p, 5.8 variation to Slab Alley won't be ready until this summer
Calculus Crack new 2p, 5.8 start
Mosquito Area Smoke Bluffs retro and new routes 5.7-5.10a
Funarama retro + new routes 5.7-5.11
Split Beaver retro + new routes 5.7-5.11
AMO Wall 5.6-5.10 plus
Olsen Creek Wall 5.8-5.11c including WireTap 5p, 5.10a
Shannon Creek retro + new routes including Forked Flume 5.8 (?) ready this summer
Butt Face (Squamish North Buttress North Face Variation) 5.9
Milk Road 9p, 5.10d A0
Gravity Bong 9p 5.13a - I'll never get on it but the photos sure look awesome.
White Feather 5p 5.11d
Polaris 5.12a (5.11b, A0)
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb
Another one is Welcome to Squampton on the squaw. A bit older but deserves more traffic.
Area 44 - Rocky Horror is especially good.
The Wire Tap Area - are the routes are excellent and an awesome place for when the heat strikes
The Great Drain Area on the Slahanny.
Lower Pet wall routes - especially Underwire and Heavy Petting Action (slight bias - they are my routes).
The Funarama retro - especially Smallpox.
The Mosquito retro - Crack of destiny is particularly fun.
liquid gold (retro)- best 5.10 pitch in town
the gauntlet- awesome!
slab alley (retro) - fun!
calculus direct (retro?)- good link up to any n.apron climbs
dancing in the light (retro)- a must do
BK I think it is called "straight outta squampton", or at least it used to be called that- maybe i'm confused and they are 2 separate climbs.
all the work at the bluffs has been great too: Tunnel rock, Ronin's, Funarama, and a bunch of other cliffs are cleaner than they have ever been- island crag, high cliff, mosquito, burgers & fries south, east penny lane, bughouse, upper crag x area & a host of others now moss-free makes for endless days on the rock.
Looking forward to polaris, wiretap, feather, new life, milk road/lower tantalus & the new routes on pet soon.
looks like someone is scrubbing another line in the bulletheads just south of liquid gold- looks awesome too.
What is area 44 like? sounds kinda like cal-cheak, how is the rock?
Thanks to all those who have the dedication and technique to remove that much earth to make/recover climbs for the rest of us!
again, good work and thanks for the contribution Robin and Harry!
Great Drain was probably my favourite but Nonsensical was good as well with some pretty steep face climbing. Although a little contrived at times as you cross Jungle Warfare.
Which by the way had its tree removed at the top of pitch 1 so its a gear anchor in the crack now, or one staple.
Stoked to check out the other routes!
I haven't heard of Welcome to Squampton on the Squaw, but Straight Outta Squampton is a boulder problem, so they have to be two different routes.
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