New route in the Western Dihedrals, 11b

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Andre Ike
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New route in the Western Dihedrals, 11b

Post by Andre Ike » Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:26 pm

The Western Dihedrals have yielded yet another good quality route:
Shaken not Stirred 11b 30m up Martini Pinnacle which was the 3rd pitch of an aid climb called Stellar System and ends at the same anchors as Bombay Sapphire. Although the route follows a very thin crack, it is primarily fun technical face climbing with loads of positive edges up rust colored slightly exfoliating rock.
Get to it by climbing the first pitch of Freeway, 11a, then the second pitch of Stone Free 11a (RP`s) to a good ledge.
Climb the easy corner to a bolt at an overlap, trend left passing another bolt to a thin crack, clip 2 more bolts (crux) and continue up the seam which is well protected with a rack of small wires, tcu`s and cams to 1 inch.
FA: Colin Moorhead, Kai Hirvonen 2001
FFA: Andre Ike, Vincent Poirier 2010

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Post by slopr » Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:04 pm

This sounds like a cool route

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Post by Tenn » Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:30 pm

This sounds cool. Where to from the top of Freeway first pitch? Stay in the corner? Never heard of Stone Free.

Hopefully we get some decent fall weather and I can give this a try...

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