New Barley Routes

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slopr
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Post by slopr » Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:26 pm

He (chopper) better hurry, the staples are multiplying @ an exponential rate and seeing as Barley has more free time than the rest of us as he doesn't use internet or have a job, all of squamish could soon be retro'ed with staples. There is now a staple line up non-descript zero star slab that starts on Paul's crack and ends on High Mtn. Woody! Travesty! I will agree that he is one of the nicest dudes around and has done lifetimes of development in BC but man, does he love to bolt/squeeze/bleach/scrub everything in sight!

hafilax
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Post by hafilax » Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:18 pm

Climbed The Great Drain yesterday. Fun day out. Interesting climbing and worth a go if the other 10- routes are packed.

hafilax
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Post by hafilax » Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:52 am

Just read an article strongly arguing against the use of staples as anchors from Jim Titt of Bolt Products.
A few good articles including the glue in bolt one extract below can be found at:
http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm
The Staple or U Bolt.

You may or may not be aware that these were in common use in Germany for many years. The Germans being thorough chaps go around testing bolts at regular intervals and the results led to two decisions. 1) To remove all staples immediatly as none achieved the required test figures. 2) To recommend the removal/changing of all bolt-in bolts after 10 yrs, all new bolt-ins should be sealed against water ingress, either as in the construction industry with a rubber ring, or with a silicon sealant, and to discourage the use of bolt-ins in areas subject to freeze/thaw conditions.

The test results for staples were not published by the DAV as far as I know but we made and tested some. 8mm dia rod with 80mm legs achieved around 6 to 8 kN, When I knurled the legs to improve the bond the rock failed, generally at around 12kN. Examination of the failure showed that drilling two holes so close together seriously weakens the rock, according to friends in the quarry industry the drilling produces micro-fractures and these link up producing an area of shattered rock between the holes. (A similar effect to when you try to fit a expansion plug in a masonary wall near to an old one). Another problem we noticed was that on the bolts with bonding failure only one leg failed, implying that the load is not evenly shared, therefore the bonding for each leg must be capable of withstanding the proof load.

This is one with threaded legs for better adhesion and extremely wide leg spacing I made up for testing some years ago.

Lurch
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Post by Lurch » Thu Sep 16, 2010 11:10 pm

Image
Image
Image
just as scary. same article.

jipstyle
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Post by jipstyle » Fri Sep 17, 2010 9:50 am

Those three pictures are reason enough to chop every staple in Squamish, imo.

J Mace
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Post by J Mace » Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:00 am

[/quote]Those three pictures are reason enough to chop every staple in Squamish, imo.

Read the article, those pictures refer to problems with dimensions of the eye of any type of glue in bolt.

Staples really dont look much different on the outside than glue in bolts.

J Mace
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Post by J Mace » Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:01 am

Those three pictures are reason enough to chop every staple in Squamish, imo..
Read the article, those pictures refer to problems with dimensions of the eye of any type of glue in bolt.

Staples really dont look much different on the outside than glue in bolts

jipstyle
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Post by jipstyle » Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:03 am

Doh.

:oops:

I apologise for my emotional over-reaction .. but a picture of a hanger opening a 'biner gave me the willies.

Anders Ourom
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Post by Anders Ourom » Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:03 pm

The subject of drilled belay and rappel anchors was the subject of considerable discussion on SuperTopo a year ago. See http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum ... ap-Anchors

Jim Titt, who seems to be acknowledged as an expert in the field, had a lot to say about the subject. Suffice to say that if he, and the UIAA/CE, are both saying that these 'staples' are unfit for climbing use, they're likely correct. Hopefully Robin will be open-minded enough to reconsider what he's doing, and indeed some of his other practices. Like it or not, the accepted standard for bolts and anchors at Squamish is now equipment approved by the CE. That is the international standard-setter, and there's no valid reason for not meeting those standards.

Perhaps Robin would agree to meet international and seemingly reasonable standards if he received partial financing for the equipment he installs, e.g. 50%.

t2climb
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Post by t2climb » Sun Oct 03, 2010 12:12 am

Or Barley could reduce by 50% the contrived P.O.C. routes he puts up and use the money saved to be in proper anchors on the 50% of his climbs that are not contrived and worthless.....or he could just quit putting up routes at all and break even that way.

mcfly
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Post by mcfly » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:09 am

Or t2climb could spend his own time and money putting in proper anchors instead of bitching about other peoples hard work on an internet forum.
I'm not a big fan of the staples but I have had a lot of good times on various RB routes over the years.
I'm curious to know what new routes you've put up around Squamish t2climb?

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Optimally-Primed
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Post by Optimally-Primed » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:33 am

Let's say we created a rating scale for hostility-of-post... angry, reactive, accusatory posts are rated 2 and mellow, kind, or gentle posts are rated 1 (we could have finer gradations in between).

My question is this: how much rain falls on days when posts are rated 2 compared to posts rated 1? My guess: a lot more.

What a depressing September. Let's all kick eachothers' a$$ on the forum! Who's gonna take a crack at me? Give me your best shot --- I can feel a sprinkle!

scrubber
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Post by scrubber » Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:44 pm

Oh, the forecast is improving, I feel myself getting kinder and gentler already...

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