New routes above and beyond area

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Don
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by Don » Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:07 pm

Thanks to Paul for recommending Cruising to Infinity! That is a blockbuster of a crack! (should have taped up though,ouch).

Just wondering ..does anyone know if there's a way to rap with a single rope off of the s side of the route? We saw a single bolt painted red near the top but nothing down below. So had an interesting time getting down...involved use of the fixed rope that was hanging next door...thanks and apologies for having to pull it around a tree in the corner...the end still reaches the ground though :oops:

After the kerfuffle only got up the first p. of Split Decision...cant wait to get back up there.

Again, big kudos to the route builders!!!!

relic
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by relic » Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:23 pm

Many moons ago I did Cruising to Infinity. But I do remember we had double ropes with us, we happened to use them quite a lot back then. So the rap was long.....

Stellar route that thing. Needs a scrub I'm sure.

Don
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by Don » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:35 pm

Hey, had fun on Split Decision today. So worth the walk, especially to get an area like this to ourselves on a fine summer day.

As far as the crux pitch, FWIW I used the upthread advice and clipped the first bolt with a runner then hand-railed across, skipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts...2 cams in the horizontal pod then a couple of moves to the corner where I sunk a #1 camalot into the base of said corner in order to breathe again.

Here's a couple of pics..thanks to the route-builders! ImageFirst Pitch
ImageStarting up the 3rd p
ImageTop of 3rd p
ImageTop of 3rd p again
ImageThe view from the top of the 4th p ImageA long way from highway noise!

squamishbeta
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Alterations to bolting at Glory Boy Wall August 2012

Post by squamishbeta » Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:21 am

First a name change reminder.... following name changes have taken place:
Split Decision .....now....... Glory Boy
9 am crack.........now.......Bolt Chopping messiah

Bolting Changes
Due to complaints from various people that they could not figure out the moves on the right hand variation of the main pitch, I have made a few alterations to the bolting, the alternative being to numbering the holds!
1) At the traverse moves on pitch 4 of Glory Boy the bolts have been moved down about three feet to make it obvious to climb the easier hand traverse instead of feet on the dike. The second bolt has been eliminated altogether as there is a gear placement.
2) A second bolt has been added to the first pitch of Bolt Chopping Messiah to provide safe protection above first ledge (previous rotten flake nut placement). Rotten flake has also been removed at the top of this pitch, making the exit move slightly harder.
3) A bolt Has been placed on Glenn Canyon to eliminate the need for a #6 Camalot. Gear now to #3.5 or #4 .
Thanks
Glenn
Glenn Woloski

d.dochstader
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by d.dochstader » Mon May 26, 2014 5:44 pm

Hiked the backside trail a few weeks ago. Does Sunrising crag extend to the viewpoint into north-north gully? I saw some anchors at the top of a few lines just not sure what area it was. looks like some fun routes.

wed
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by wed » Wed May 28, 2014 2:22 pm

Climbed Glory Boy or (old Split Decision) last fall with Derek C. and heartily recommend it and give Robin and others a vitual slap on the back for their work. Beautiful, varied and challenging, with a backcountry ambience. Reminds me of Tuolomnie!

The last pitch which is a little cryptic at the bolted dyke traverse, is in MHO 11- as originally rated.
Derek hand traversed on lead(harder) and I managed a static foot traverse with a high crimp at the beginning before hand traverseing (on the second). Pumpy and fun. Third pitch was easier than it looked and was a great adventure on the OS. A 70m made it easy to rap off the last 2 pitches in one rappell

I will be back for a repeat and am also wondering where the 2 new crags - "Twilight Zone" and "Sunrising" are in relation to Glory Boy?

Wes

tobyfk
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by tobyfk » Mon Jul 04, 2016 7:40 am

Steve Swenson and I repeated Split Decision/ Glory Boy yesterday. It is an excellent route which deserves more traffic. I'd agree with "better than Sunblessed".

We approached from the Squaw. On the way up we followed the "Chief" signage which takes you to the right-hand side of Above and Beyond. From there it took us some time to find the final approach trail for Split Decision, as the blue flagging is in poor shape. We found several pieces on the ground, almost hidden by dead leaves and other forest debris. Where possible we re-tied the tape in visible spots, but the old tape is now very brittle from age, and won't last long. I might head up there on a rest day to renew it.

Pitch 1 is climbable but definitely has a neglected feel. Gritty with the vegetation returning (?) to the cracks. But above that the route is in a pretty good shape.

We did the right hand finish to pitch 4. The finger traverse along the dike seemed the logical way to go. The two bolts are adequate on that section and in good locations. As mentioned elsewhere in the thread, there's a reasonable spot to place cams in a horizontal slot in between the bolts.

tobyfk
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Re: New routes above and beyond area

Post by tobyfk » Mon Jul 04, 2016 9:15 am

Was just looking at this photo I took from the gondola area a couple of years ago, and decided to add a few annotations. I think this is reasonably accurate for the relative locations of Sunblessed, Split Decision and Everything Under the Sun (though I have not done EUTS) and the various trails.

Image

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