Just wondering ..does anyone know if there's a way to rap with a single rope off of the s side of the route? We saw a single bolt painted red near the top but nothing down below. So had an interesting time getting down...involved use of the fixed rope that was hanging next door...thanks and apologies for having to pull it around a tree in the corner...the end still reaches the ground though
After the kerfuffle only got up the first p. of Split Decision...cant wait to get back up there.
Again, big kudos to the route builders!!!!
Stellar route that thing. Needs a scrub I'm sure.
As far as the crux pitch, FWIW I used the upthread advice and clipped the first bolt with a runner then hand-railed across, skipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts...2 cams in the horizontal pod then a couple of moves to the corner where I sunk a #1 camalot into the base of said corner in order to breathe again.
Here's a couple of pics..thanks to the route-builders! First Pitch
Starting up the 3rd p
Top of 3rd p
Top of 3rd p again
The view from the top of the 4th p A long way from highway noise!
Split Decision .....now....... Glory Boy
9 am crack.........now.......Bolt Chopping messiah
Due to complaints from various people that they could not figure out the moves on the right hand variation of the main pitch, I have made a few alterations to the bolting, the alternative being to numbering the holds!
1) At the traverse moves on pitch 4 of Glory Boy the bolts have been moved down about three feet to make it obvious to climb the easier hand traverse instead of feet on the dike. The second bolt has been eliminated altogether as there is a gear placement.
2) A second bolt has been added to the first pitch of Bolt Chopping Messiah to provide safe protection above first ledge (previous rotten flake nut placement). Rotten flake has also been removed at the top of this pitch, making the exit move slightly harder.
3) A bolt Has been placed on Glenn Canyon to eliminate the need for a #6 Camalot. Gear now to #3.5 or #4 .
The last pitch which is a little cryptic at the bolted dyke traverse, is in MHO 11- as originally rated.
Derek hand traversed on lead(harder) and I managed a static foot traverse with a high crimp at the beginning before hand traverseing (on the second). Pumpy and fun. Third pitch was easier than it looked and was a great adventure on the OS. A 70m made it easy to rap off the last 2 pitches in one rappell
I will be back for a repeat and am also wondering where the 2 new crags - "Twilight Zone" and "Sunrising" are in relation to Glory Boy?
We approached from the Squaw. On the way up we followed the "Chief" signage which takes you to the right-hand side of Above and Beyond. From there it took us some time to find the final approach trail for Split Decision, as the blue flagging is in poor shape. We found several pieces on the ground, almost hidden by dead leaves and other forest debris. Where possible we re-tied the tape in visible spots, but the old tape is now very brittle from age, and won't last long. I might head up there on a rest day to renew it.
Pitch 1 is climbable but definitely has a neglected feel. Gritty with the vegetation returning (?) to the cracks. But above that the route is in a pretty good shape.
We did the right hand finish to pitch 4. The finger traverse along the dike seemed the logical way to go. The two bolts are adequate on that section and in good locations. As mentioned elsewhere in the thread, there's a reasonable spot to place cams in a horizontal slot in between the bolts.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests