Cleaning Projects List

[harihari]

There are probably 200+ climbs in the Corridor that are good, and overgrown. I bet there's at least 1000 trad climbers in the Van-Squamish area alone. If every climber cleaned one pitch every two years, we would have a couple of hundred decent "new" routes to climb instead of repeating Penny Lane or Sentry Box 400 times per season.

So...here's a preliminary list. Thanks to Mace and Damien and of course Frimer who is the local God of cleaning. SEND IN YOUR IDEAS! PICK A PROJECT!

Upper Pitch of Sickle (the corner)

Powaqatsi (won't need much work; most could be done with just wire brushes and nut tools...you could climb the thing and clean while rapping). A decent access trail for this would also go a long ways for more traffic.

Mr Picklebits in Murrin (mostly needs a wire-brush scrub)

Koyanisqatsi-- this would be a bigger project, but a good cleaning and a few bolts would make a superb moderate multipitch, or a solid intro to mine and Driller's and Napoleon's upcoming La Gota Fria.

Jake The Snake an odd but cool ending for Snake, would only really need a wire-brush scrub.


Ok that's a start. Got a suggestion? Post it!

[Anders Ourom]

OK, I volunteer to work on Slab Alley.

And after that, maybe Pineapple Peel.

But very carefully, with thought as to the history and nature of the routes.

[Dru]

Isn't Smell of Fat Chick totally overgrown? It's supposed to be a 4 star line when it's clean.

[harihari]

Isn't Smell of Fat Chick totally overgrown? It's supposed to be a 4 star line when it's clean.

yes it is and yes it is. OK Dru take it on! Two people can easily clean apitch in less than 1 day. All you need are some nut tools, wire brushes (cheap) and possibly a small handsaw (a swiss army knife saw often works fine).

I also add to the list, Angel's crest, the right-hand variation on the third-to last pitch (it parallels the whaleback arete pitch). mostly need s ascrub with 2 small trees to come out.

[Dru]

OK Dru take it on!

I only scrub in the Fraser Valley nowadays. I am leaving Squamish cleaning for Squamish/Vancouver people. Climb globally, clean locally.

[paulc]

Isn't Smell of Fat Chick totally overgrown? It's supposed to be a 4 star line when it's clean.

yes it is and yes it is. OK Dru take it on! Two people can easily clean apitch in less than 1 day. All you need are some nut tools, wire brushes (cheap) and possibly a small handsaw (a swiss army knife saw often works fine).

I also add to the list, Angel's crest, the right-hand variation on the third-to last pitch (it parallels the whaleback arete pitch). mostly need s ascrub with 2 small trees to come out.

I'll take SoFC. I was up there earlier in the year looking at it. something to do this year as it looks 4 star for sure.

The bottom looked pretty good, but the top has some cruft that should come off pretty fast.

On another note, I checked out Pamplemousse (sp?) on the papoose the other day. Fun, except for the huge move at the roof. It could use some cleaning, but pretty low on the list I think.

The top pitch of Limbo on the Papoose could likely use a brush. It provides an alternate finish to things that connect near the top S side of the main wall. Fun as well, short crux as I recall.

P

[harihari]

OK Dru take it on!

I only scrub in the Fraser Valley nowadays. I am leaving Squamish cleaning for Squamish/Vancouver people. Climb globally, clean locally.

ha well then the Harrison Bluffs are all yours...

[damien]

The harrison bluffs are my home crag. That's where I learned to climb. There are some interesting areas there. There are nice (mossy) boulders behind the big hotel, a large unclimbed/unexplored (access challenge) wall on the north west side of harrison more or less across from the harrison bluffs proper. Also fun and interesting climbs on echo island.

[damien]

walking along the base from NN Arete to angle's c there are a number of grown over climbs that looked like good climbs. SOme of these are mentioned in the guide book.

Any know anything about these?

[Dru]

The harrison bluffs are my home crag. That's where I learned to climb. There are some interesting areas there. There are nice (mossy) boulders behind the big hotel, a large unclimbed/unexplored (access challenge) wall on the north west side of harrison more or less across from the harrison bluffs proper. Also fun and interesting climbs on echo island.

Marc and Marco spearheaded the revitalization of Harrison, along with Mike W, there are something like 50 currently climbable pitches to go at right now with 20 or 30 left to reclean.

Boulders behind the hotel got scrubbed 2-3 yrs ago but have grown over some. Boulders at Harrison proper are getting a good workover by Marco et al, 50-60 problems including some of the best in the Valley.

Across from Harrison wall - you mean NE? The one you can see from the golf course area looking east? I've been told it's limestone. I believe Andy G slogged up there in the 90s and said it was good from afar but far from good up close.

Tell me more about Echo. I know there is DWS stuff off the lake, is that what you mean?

[damien]

NE, my bad. And too bad they are no good. It does look good from a far. I figured it was the same piece of granite as the developed side. Though it sounds not worth it, I always figure that access from the Seabird side might be shorter.

In 1998 A friend and I explored the side of the Echo that faces town, and cleaned/climbed a bunch of routes. I suspect they are long gone now. There is some cool rock type on the SW tip of the island by the bay with the mooring bouys (the boaters right side of the bay). The climbs were shortish, but that was more a function of us and our commitment to cleanign rather than what was there and possible.

It is exciting that there is more than a handfull of climbs there now. The guide I have is an old photocopy that is very hard to follow. Are you folks putting a guide something for the rest of us?

[Dru]

Marco is a big proponent of Mountainproject.com so we have been using that instead.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/intern ... /105994963

[staven]

The harrison bluffs are my home crag. That's where I learned to climb. There are some interesting areas there. There are nice (mossy) boulders behind the big hotel, a large unclimbed/unexplored (access challenge) wall on the north west side of harrison more or less across from the harrison bluffs proper. Also fun and interesting climbs on echo island.

I was surveying on Echo Island last year and came across this sweet-looking East-facing crag. Looks like limestone, ~25m tall, shaded by timber but opened up by the selective heli-logging from 3 years ago. Looks really good, but of course somewhat difficult access.





And its approximate location:


If you're into checking it out I can give you some more info.

Wes.

[staven]

The harrison bluffs are my home crag. That's where I learned to climb. There are some interesting areas there. There are nice (mossy) boulders behind the big hotel, a large unclimbed/unexplored (access challenge) wall on the north west side of harrison more or less across from the harrison bluffs proper. Also fun and interesting climbs on echo island.

If you're interested, I also scoped this out from the helicopter a couple of years ago but haven't gotten the chance to check it out in person yet. It's East of the powerlines at ~29km on the West Harrison FSR, about 400m off the mainline. You may be able to drive to within 100m. I saw a truck parked near this once, not sure if it was for the crag or not.



And its location:

[Brendan]

Does anybody know the status of Excitable Boy located at Browning Bluff directly adjacent Browning Lake (Murrin Park)?

We drive past it everyday but I keep on going thinking that it never gets climbed, and is probably very dirty.