Changed access for Sky Pilot and Habrich- what does it mean?

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Changed access for Sky Pilot and Habrich- what does it mean?

Post by squamish climber » Fri Apr 16, 2010 10:31 am

The following update was posted on the Squamish Access Society's website. Getting up Habrich has been a longstanding goal of mine, but I heard that the road closure made for a long approach. I'm wondering how long the approach will be now that more of the road is opened up?

Changed Access to Skypilot
The following information was forwarded by email to the SAS regarding the re-opening of the Stawamus/Indian River Forest Service Road. This has relevance for those seeking access to the Sky Pilot/ Habrich/etc… area and is effective as of January 19th 2010.

Re: Rescinding closure order on the Stawamus/lndian River Forest Service Road

In October 2003, the Stawamus/Indian River Forest Service Road (FSR) (4823.01) was closed under Section 57 of the Forest Practices Code of British Columbia Act following extensive damage to the road as a result of a severe storm event.

Following significant repairs and deactivation during the fall of 2009, the road has now been either repaired or deactivated to a level which protects the watersheds’ environmental resources and is safe for public use. Due to some short sections of extensive deactivation, the road is now impassable near the mountain pass between the Stawamus and Indian River watersheds located approximately 10.5km to 12km from the junction of the Mamquam FSR or between 22.5km to 24km from the head of Indian Arm. As a result of this work, please be advised that the FSR closure notice is hereby rescinded and the passable portions of the FSR are open for public and industrial use effective immediately.
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Post by Dooley » Fri Apr 16, 2010 1:15 pm

Guess I will jump in the Jeep and go for a drive. I will report back with pictures.
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Post by J Mace » Fri Apr 16, 2010 4:18 pm

A crappy road to a boulder blockade ?

We need them to fix shannon road to really make this happening.

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Post by J Mace » Fri Apr 16, 2010 5:00 pm

Dave, if all your looking to do is get up Habrich you can follow Peggs new route up from the Stawamus road.


It used to be on this site, but seems like the free download page is gone?


http://www.squamishclimbing.com/area_home.htm

Also he posted the state of the Shannon road here in 2007

http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... 4ebb23005d

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Post by Dooley » Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:51 am

Made it to Km 8 before a mechanical in one of the vechicles turned us around. You need a 4x4 just for a couple of the grades but other then that the road is in great shape. Was cool to finally be able to stand and look directly at Habrich and Sky Pilot. Hit snow at km 6 or so as an FYI.
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Post by Brendan » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:56 am

Dooley,

With 4x4 access, how long would it take to hike from the parked vehicle to the base of say Life On Earth?

Thanks.

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Post by Dooley » Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:49 am

I am unsure as I was wondering that myself when looking at the peaks. You are looking at about an hour of bush whacking to the base of each (as I dont know where the access trail is and this is a complete estimate) before that though you need to cross the Stawamus river. Which when the water levels drop I dont see being too much of an issue but yesterday it would of been pretty hairy as it was moving alot of water!

If there is no access trail from this road I think a well thought out point to cross the river will be needed then a trail flagged and implemented to ensure that people heading there will stick to the one trail instead of making many. There are pull outs on the road in certain areas so parking can be accomadated for a couple of vehicles at a time.

I will post pics when I can.
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Post by Dru » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:40 pm

From that viewpoint you're basically on the other side of the mtn from Life on Earth. There is supposed to be an old trail from upper Stawamus River after it forks south from the Indian FSR that takes you up to the col with Shannon Creek. If you can't find that you're basically looking at climbing to the top of Fluffy Kitten Wall and then traversing around the mountain and dropping in to get to the base of LoE.

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Post by J Mace » Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:06 pm

There is a trail to the N Butress of Habrich, I will send the topo to Dave now.

The road to the boulder blockade is the one we need to fix, from the blockade I think its 2 hours by bike to the trail head then a solid steep hour to LOE

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Post by jefffski » Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:01 pm

years ago i drove right to the base of habrich. There was a trail there that led to the base of life on earth etc. Once we missed that trail and the bushwack was not fun.

We drove on a very bad spur road to a large truck turnaround. is this road now completely gone?

And i don't remember any river crossing--was there a bridge that we crossed that is gone too?

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Post by J Mace » Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:37 pm

No river crossing, thats on the other side of the mountain.

Ya I have driven it as well, however just past the viewpoint/memorial they removed the road, not even quadable.

The trail to LOE still exists

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Post by psi4ce » Tue Apr 20, 2010 7:42 am

1) I have never been up to the Habrich/Sky Pilot area,
1) I want to get up there this year,
2) I want to get up there the easiest way possible, and
3) I am quite confused about the access and various options

I know access changed recently as per the SAS update.

Not to like completely offload the responsibility or anything, but can someone figure all this stuff out and post a nice map or topo for me? 8)

A competent 4x4 vehicle is likely involved.

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Post by J Mace » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:24 am

Just follow the route as per McClanes guide for Habrich/fluffy kitten wall routes, acess has not changed except the gate is now officially open.

Before you were able to drive around the gate now you can go through it.

IF your keen on Sky pilot its likely better to approach via the BCMC Mountain lake hut, join the club get the key and directions. You would not approach Habrich this way though.

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Post by Brendan » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:50 am

JMace,

Is Mountain Lake Hut approached from the Furry Creek FSR?

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Post by Anders Ourom » Tue Apr 20, 2010 1:52 pm

You can approach the Mountain Lake Hut from the top of the roads in Furry Creek, via a trail that the BCMC built. There is (or was) a gate just off the highway, at the turnoff at the top of the long straight hill. The BCMC has keys to the gate and cabin, and is at info(at)bcmc.ca It's more of a summer trail, although you can use skis if you want. Mountain Lake isn't very convenient to Mt. Habrich, although you can get to Ledge, Sky Pilot and Mount Shear from it.

The road that has been reopened is on the northeast side of Mt. Habrich. The Shannon Creek road branches off that road after a few km, and leads into the upper reaches of Shannon Creek, below Mount Habrich and Sky Pilot. AFAIK, the Shannon Creek road is still undriveable. The climbs on the southwest side of Habrich are reached via a steep gully leading up from the road.

The reopened road, on the northeast (other) side of Habrich, gives access to the Fluffy Kitten Wall, and in spring to the pass between Ledge and Habrich. It's very brushy, so the snow helps. First you bushwhack up a spur road, then up a steep gully. Though I haven't been there for a while.

The first ascent of "Life on Earth" was by Hamish Fraser and Peder Ourom, sometime in the early 1990s, using few bolts. They called it the Direct Nose or the Original Nose, or something like that.

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