teenage girls wont blow gorbies.

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bradley3297
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teenage girls wont blow gorbies.

Post by bradley3297 » Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:15 pm

Just posting about this anchor. its a shoddy barley anchor with substantially sharp cold shuts. pretty bad for ropes. Looking for somebody with the tools to do an anchor replacement. id love to help and pay for any new hardware. Pst me if your interested. Id just do it but im short on know how and tools. Unless anyone opposes this replacement of course.
Bradley

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:03 pm

His anchors are "just Barley adequate", as they say :oops:

Dru
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Post by Dru » Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:17 am

I don't think you can blame Robin for this one, wasn't it Hoogstratten that did the FA? Or did Robin replace the anchor during his and Harry's reworking of the crag in 09?

bradley3297
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Post by bradley3297 » Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:01 pm

K. Barley style at least
Bradley

rolfr
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Post by rolfr » Wed May 19, 2010 7:52 pm

I have always thought this route was stellar! Robin chopped the intermediate anchor on the slab just above the 10b headwall start last year.

Dale Caldwell who put up TGWBG realized you needed an anchor here, because rope stretch at the crux (beginning of the headwall) would result in a bad ledge fall. i know, after skipping the first anchor and blowing the crux, i hit the ledge and almost snapped my ankle.

Robin claims the original first ascent to TGWBG, but i am pretty sure they climbed Foot and Mouth Disease and traversed in to the upper part of TGWBG.

Harry, have a word with the difficult old bugger. Have him climb it from the dirt and risk his arthritic old ankle ! Don’t lead it for him, if you chop a bolt you should understand the consequences.

I will be back to replace Dale's anchor. I'll take care of the top anchors too.

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