Wire Tap

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quantum7
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by quantum7 » Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:39 pm

Climbed Wiretap today - fun, varied route in a great setting. Will be even better after it sees some traffic. Thanks to those involved in the work of putting this route up.

BSP
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by BSP » Fri Jun 10, 2011 4:50 pm

Good job! did wire tap great moderate grade multi

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:15 pm

Giddy-up! There is a new crack climb up on the Olesen Creek Wall called Wire Crack (10a). From the topo you can see that it branches off from the original Wire Tap route. The experience is a bit different than the original Wire Tap line as you can climb cracks the whole way up the route, however, it can still be climbed in 3 long pitches (50 m to the stump belay, 30m from there to the base of the last crack pitch, and 30m up the crack all at 10a). Of course, you can still climb into the second Wire Tap pitch from any of the base pitches (like my faves Thriller on the Pillar and Hearsay) Descent: Four fixe raps brings you back to the ground. This rappel route passes through some spectacular new terrain.

Image

Topo download at the URL below:

Wire Crack FFA: Damien McCombs & Tennessee Trent 2011
http://jeremyfrimer.com/Climbing_Routes ... t%2014.pdf
If the topo is not the 2011 update, empty your browser cache and try again.
note: grades are suggestions only.

Constructive comments are welcomed; hope you enjoy...

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:18 pm

Me, heading up Wire Crack
Image

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:21 pm

Jeremy branching off towards the belay below Wire Crack.
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Optimally-Primed
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by Optimally-Primed » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:57 pm

Wire Crack is awesome! A 5-star pitch! You can't see it until you're at the belay below it. Then finally, you look up at this perfect crack splitting the steep wall above. It's an amazing situation. The climbing reminds a bit of "the pitch" on Sunblessed (albeit not as long). For a good 20m it's stellar fingers to hands jamming (red camalot crux at a bulge in my opinion). With Wire Crack, the route is crack climbing from bottom to top, and a better route overall in my view.

The rap route is straightforward too. Big overhang on the 3rd rap... And gives a look into the future for the area. Someone is going to see all the new terrain and think about a scrub brush...

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Fri Aug 26, 2011 12:42 pm

Great, solid jamming and good exposure makes for fun moves up the second second ascent of Wire Crack.
Image

al pine
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by al pine » Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:52 pm

Climbed the new variation (wire crack) this Sat am...very nice, great job guys. I agree a much better finish. I found the last pitch harder then the 10a, but maybe when the face exfoliates more (the crack is clean, but thin kinda like zip or nubile woman) the grade will feel more like 10a. Also this crack will protect well with small, medium tri-cams for those who like'm.

Warning on the rap:

At the base of the rap (at the downhill end of the fixed line), there is a wasp/hornets nest in the ground....right about where you can rap with a 70m (and skip the fixed line). I was stacking our rope there and got stung thrice. We tried to mark it with a ring of rocks and it is near a stump. You can avoid it if you pull the rope at the top of the fixed line and then speed outta there!

smallman
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by smallman » Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:15 am

I climbed the Wire Crack variation yesterday. I thought the traverse on the third pitch to be about 10a ish and wire crack to be more a 5.9. Also below the roof on the rap route (3rd rap) are two massive blocks very precariously attached to the wall which are in a direct fall line to the last rap trees. These things would easily kill anyone at that rap station. I was going to trundle them but my partner was in the fall line. There does look like some great potential for other routes along the rap line too.

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:09 am

I reclimbed Wire Crack a number of times yesterday and, though I am biased to some degree, I think this is a pretty stellar pitch. I suppose the dificulty depends on your hand size, but it is a great 5.9 - 10a crack indeed. Lots of great rests - wrist lock, finger lock, foot pods, and good solid jams. No gear bigger than a #2 BD required, and you could do it without that too. Two 0.75 BD's would be help full.

Also, the face stayed in the shade till about 2:30-3pm.

I coiled at the fixed line, as Al Pine recommended, and the wasps were disinterested in us (Fewf!).

All in all fun day out.

t-bone
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by t-bone » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:58 pm

I climbed WireCrack today via Hearsay and agree with the other posters, its a very good crack and definitely the better variation. I fear that the original finish of Wiretap may now be rendereds obselete.

I found the traverse at the end of p3 to be about 10a and WireCrack to be about 5.9 (I feel its easier than the 10a crack at the start of p3).

On the last rap I couldn't find the anchors and ended up rapping off a tree. Judging by the recent sling, I wasn't the first to do this. No biggie but head's up for future parties.

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Optimally-Primed
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by Optimally-Primed » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:32 pm

In light of the trouble finding the last rap station, I modified the topo to hopefully clear that up. The key is to rap to the RIGHT of the tree at the bottom. The station is just out of view on an excellent ledge. Sorry for the confusion folks.

topo

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:09 pm

Optimally-Primed wrote:In light of the trouble finding the last rap station, I modified the topo to hopefully clear that up. The key is to rap to the RIGHT of the tree at the bottom. The station is just out of view on an excellent ledge. Sorry for the confusion folks.

topo
Thanks Jer.

PJH
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by PJH » Thu Oct 13, 2011 8:22 pm

How quickly does this wall dry? What are the chances of Wire Crack being dry on Saturday?

damien
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Re: Wire Tap

Post by damien » Thu Oct 13, 2011 9:16 pm

PJH,

The wall dries suprisingly fast. That said there are spots that seep and I would suspect that the fallen leaf debris of the season has parts damp for some time. What is excellent about the whole area, is that there is a strong updraft most days and that seems to aid in drying the wall out. The lower half dries much slower. Sun in the summer hits the upper wall around 2pm; Winter time not sure.

If I were heading up there, I would expect the lower cruxes of Wiretap to be wet, Thriller to be quite dry, and Hearsay quite climbable. All in all; expect wetness (and adventure?). I would bet that everything from the 3rd pitch of wire tap and up to be basically dry where you would wanna climb. Wire crack would likely be dry. Um, there is usually a river at the 3rd belay after a good rain.

Actually, maybe you should climb it and let us know! :roll:

IMHO, Wire Crack is spectacular and worth climbing in the sleet. :lol:

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