Damien, Now that I think about it, I tend to agree with you that p3 of Wiretap is 5.9. I think the p3 overlap (5.9) on St Vitus is harder than anything on Wiretap.
I think you could safely call Wiretap either easy 10a or solid 5.9.....aaah the tough choices a first ascentionist has to make...
...and you had to climb it, up hill both ways?Dru wrote:[old man voice] When I started climbing Orphan was called Minutia and it was "benchmark 5.8"[/old man voice]damien wrote: Comparing to Orphan, Clandestine Affair, and the lower bit of Pennylane I again think this part of the climb is only 5.9.
The topo still reads 10a.
Fun route, and a nice addition. I only had BD cams, and they were definitely a bit touchy on P3. My second claimed none of them would have held, though I thought they were acceptable when I placed them (I linked into the next pitch, so I suspect the rope pulling dislodged them).
I sort of think one of the lower bolts should have been left. Eventually someone is going to go up there, take a fall, and rip out most the gear. One more lower bolt would have kept it engaging, but also prevent a total disaster on what is otherwise a very well protected climb. The rest of the climb is so well protected that the current state of P3 seems out of character.
Regardless of the bolts, a good route and thanks for the work involved!
Thanks for the comment. Before removing the bolts, we vigorously bounce-tested each piece (placed right beside a bolt). Each held every kind of static fall we could generate on it. While the protection is not the most straightforward to place, excellent protection can be had if the climber works at it.
I agree with the first acentionists view that if the route(s) don't see a lot of traffic, the lower pitches will moss over quickly. Adding the other single pitch routes at the base will certainly be an added draw for folks. This cliff as a whole has the potential to have quite a few quality (mostly single pitch) routes on it and be a very desirable destination in it's own right.
The amount of work that went into the lower 35m of that crag is staggering. Hats off to the gents who made it possible.
My partner and I did the standard 1-2, and 3-4 linkup and it worked great. I might pass on p5 next time, but it was fun to do once. We felt the pitches protected well as is. I had no issues with questionable gear above or below the remaining bolt on p3. The crack might not be a perfectly parallel sided bottomless splitter, but it takes good gear with a bit of careful thought. The bolt that remains protects what is really a flaring seam.
After we got down we thought we'd have a quick round with Float like a butterfly..., Well we sure underestimated it! I'll claim my excuse as being in my big floppy comfy multi pitch shoes, but I sure had my a$% handed to me on the crux moves. Can't wait for a rematch with appropriate footwear. (I'll bring it down to my level)
You can see Rumble in the Jungle(5.ate) in the blocky corner, Eaves Drop (11a) goes up the face features right of the rope, and a glimpse of Hearsay (10b) up and left of the climber. You can rappel with a 60m.
Wiretap P1 crux. Leader is trailing a line for a top-roping set up. A tr set-up will work on Hearsay (10b), Wiretap P1 (10a), Eavesdrop (11a), and Rumble in the Jungle (5.ate). Once set up on Hearsay, you can keep shifting the tr setup rightwards without more leading; you must rap a little to gain the Eavesdrop/Rumble anchor (visible just down and right of the climbers but).
Incidently, has anyone been up that way this season?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest