Apollo 13

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Sunday
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Apollo 13

Post by Sunday » Fri Aug 07, 2009 4:34 pm

Went down to Apollo 13 last week-end... two thumbs up

BUT, what's with the Start? solid V2 boulder problem unprotected over the raging Chekamus river...

anyone?

Squamishmonkey
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Post by Squamishmonkey » Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:18 pm

There used to be a boulder that you started on and it was washed away two years ago during heavy snowmelt. You could clip the bolt from the boulder. Now it is a much harder unprotected start. The best option is to clip one rope on rap, giving you a mini top rope when you pull your ropes or..... simply fall into the raging river and be belayed back to shore!!!

Sunday
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Post by Sunday » Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:18 pm

That's what I figured,

If a bolt appeared here would Kevin McLane or Joe Turley chop it personally?

kirk
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Post by kirk » Sun Aug 09, 2009 9:16 am

I climbed it 5-6 years ago and had the same problem. Scary lead with that polished rock... i think that a bolt would be a good idea. Otherwise, maybe an alternate start, i think i remember considering a face crack a few M left of the start, directly over the river.

Is there an approach to this climb?
The SAS site says that there's no more rapping into Star Chek :
http://squamishaccess.ca/?cat=6
Did you have to rap into this one?

rockstarlette
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Post by rockstarlette » Sun Aug 09, 2009 8:15 pm

i think you should put a bolt on it... that way when i grow up and have the guts to lead it, i will feel better about the start!

corn_dog
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Post by corn_dog » Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:56 pm

Hey Sunday, maybe if you were a little taller it wouldn't be such a problem?

Sunday
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Post by Sunday » Mon Aug 10, 2009 5:52 pm

Hey wiener-dog, at least I don't have genetically modified legs

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