new route
new route
new route left of presto at nightmare rock.
Calm like a bomb 12b r. Excellent climbing, challenging protection. A 000 grey C3 is mandatory in the initial offset, it goes in vertically then is pulled down into position.
The line was cleaned a while ago, and someone has a pink rope fixed.
enjoy
Calm like a bomb 12b r. Excellent climbing, challenging protection. A 000 grey C3 is mandatory in the initial offset, it goes in vertically then is pulled down into position.
The line was cleaned a while ago, and someone has a pink rope fixed.
enjoy
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Craig Mcgee
- I'm New Here
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:33 pm
Poached route (AKA stolen)
Well look what we have here, this should be interesting.....
The route Dave Gauley has call "Calm like a bomb" was actualy freshly cleaned and set up by me, Craig McGee. As we all no (Dave included} a freshly cleaned route with a fixed rope and fixed gear (gear mysteriously not there anymore, and not returned to me "aka, stolen") is not "open" to the public. It means that someone has invested time, money and their effort to produce a route, a project. It does not a mean that it is free for all for every lazy, disrespecting climber.
As well a fixed rope on a project does not mean that anyone can pop their soloest device on someone else's property to work the sh*t out of someone's route and then "poach" it while they are gone.
This is quite disrespectful behavior and does nothing for the future of climbing in Squamish. If peoples projects (new routes) get scooped, then they aren't going to continue putting up routes, and then there will be less new routes for everyone to enjoy. I would appreciate my gear back too.
Craig McGee
PS: I have also given "Presto" a retro scub and bolt, enjoy.
The route Dave Gauley has call "Calm like a bomb" was actualy freshly cleaned and set up by me, Craig McGee. As we all no (Dave included} a freshly cleaned route with a fixed rope and fixed gear (gear mysteriously not there anymore, and not returned to me "aka, stolen") is not "open" to the public. It means that someone has invested time, money and their effort to produce a route, a project. It does not a mean that it is free for all for every lazy, disrespecting climber.
As well a fixed rope on a project does not mean that anyone can pop their soloest device on someone else's property to work the sh*t out of someone's route and then "poach" it while they are gone.
This is quite disrespectful behavior and does nothing for the future of climbing in Squamish. If peoples projects (new routes) get scooped, then they aren't going to continue putting up routes, and then there will be less new routes for everyone to enjoy. I would appreciate my gear back too.
Craig McGee
PS: I have also given "Presto" a retro scub and bolt, enjoy.
Well Craig
never one to argue online, call me anytime to talk. That route was acually cleaned 2 yrs ago by rich wheater, and as far as i knew was an open project.
I had heard that you epoxy'ed some stuff on presto and added a bolt, but as far as a closed project no.
I removed one fixed nut, which you can have anytime. I did the route a whopping 3 times on my soloist then got a belay for the redpoint.
Anyways kinda like what happened on deadend dihedral. I invested time to clean, install anchors, and protection bolts only to have to go to work then...
Why don't you just give me a call
Dave
never one to argue online, call me anytime to talk. That route was acually cleaned 2 yrs ago by rich wheater, and as far as i knew was an open project.
I had heard that you epoxy'ed some stuff on presto and added a bolt, but as far as a closed project no.
I removed one fixed nut, which you can have anytime. I did the route a whopping 3 times on my soloist then got a belay for the redpoint.
Anyways kinda like what happened on deadend dihedral. I invested time to clean, install anchors, and protection bolts only to have to go to work then...
Why don't you just give me a call
Dave
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Jason Kruk
- I'm New Here
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:37 am
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Craig Mcgee
- I'm New Here
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:33 pm
"Wait what" what the heck does that mean?
I have responded to Dave personally. However you will all find no "glue" on Presto. In rebolting it I attempeted to re-glue Jims already re-enforced hold after the crux. I did this in the dark after a long day of work and had no idea how it would work out. When I re inspected it afterwards it was apparent that it did work and I removed the hold (will the ethic's police please respond to which is the bigger sin as I can't sleep at night). You will also find a lower anchor...oh God not a lower anchor!!!! so your rope doesn't get torched on the edge at the top.
One more bolt has been added . I re arranged the lower three bolts so that you can actually go for an onsight and place your draws from real stances and not have them pre placed. This meant lowering the second bolt by 8 inches. Because of this I added a new third bold as you would hit the ground if you missed the next bolt. Purist don't need to clip this bolt as the ground is softer for them. Craig
I have responded to Dave personally. However you will all find no "glue" on Presto. In rebolting it I attempeted to re-glue Jims already re-enforced hold after the crux. I did this in the dark after a long day of work and had no idea how it would work out. When I re inspected it afterwards it was apparent that it did work and I removed the hold (will the ethic's police please respond to which is the bigger sin as I can't sleep at night). You will also find a lower anchor...oh God not a lower anchor!!!! so your rope doesn't get torched on the edge at the top.
One more bolt has been added . I re arranged the lower three bolts so that you can actually go for an onsight and place your draws from real stances and not have them pre placed. This meant lowering the second bolt by 8 inches. Because of this I added a new third bold as you would hit the ground if you missed the next bolt. Purist don't need to clip this bolt as the ground is softer for them. Craig
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