Wondering if you guys finished the gauntlet via the last bolted face pitch and chimney or did you finish via europa?
Nick E?barefootcracks wrote:Thanks for putting up such a great route.
Loved the duality of the 4th pitch - goes over the roof and it's a different world; each giving a rest right in the middle of it.
I'm stoked with an onsite!
Pitch one (cleaning the brain) is good. Pitch 2 is awesome (we did the .11a corner). Apparently the "mad nerd and poodle" pitch 1 is one of the best 5.10 pitches in Squamish (that's what I hear from people who know about that sort of thing). Worth checking out right?? Pitch 3 is a cool move from a corner into a hand crack on an exposed feeling arete - kind of like topping out on the .11c pitch of high plains drifter - followed by some good face climbing. The belay at the top of pitch 3 has a block sitting on it that is not attached to anything - that made us both a little nervous as there were lots of climbers below. Careful with that. The next pitch was hard, sustained, well protected and awesome. The route keeps going and there are several variations possible as it intersects with Europa and Millennium Falcon. We didn't do the .10d slab/face pitch as it's a little spicy and the .11b chimney top out looked pretty full on. The Europa (chicken out) finish was great.
Blah blah. It's all in the guidebook. I'd love to hear about others experience on this quality route. It deserves traffic. Some one do it...
Are all belays bolted or are there some gear belays (not including the Europa variation)?
And just to clarify, what is the largest BD Camalot needed and can I get by with just one?
Hi Craven and others, you are welcome for the 10d pitch! Andreas Taylor and I cleaned and freed that excellent 10d pitch back in May of 2003. It is in the Kevin McLane guidebook from 2005, called The Simian Response. We actually climbed/pulled on gear up the 12b pitch too, but not free. So I guess Colin and Jer freed the 12b pitch we left as a project and renamed it Mad Nerd and Poodle, or the Facade in the new guide book. I wonder if the Mad Nerd name is a poke at Andreas maybe? Sort of like when Croft freed Kevin Mclane's Astronomy first pitch and renamed it Mad Englishman and Dog.The corner system to the right of pitch 3 is a 2 pitch line put up in '06 called Mad Nerd and Poodle, the pitches are 10d,12b. The 10d pitch is one of the best 5.10 pitches going and makes an excellent variation to The Gauntlet. The 12b is also amazing featuring wild stemming and laybackiing in a double overhanging corner.
Also, the first 10c splitter pitch of The Gauntlet is an old climb called Cleaning the Brain from 1984 by Scott Young, Craig Thompson, and Jim Brennan. We re-cleaned that when we did the 10d pitch in 2003.
Not sure why neither parties get any credit in the new select guide, but the new renamed continuations of what we climbed before sound really good.
I have a picture of me seconding the 2003 FA of The Simian Response/Mad Nerd and Poodle/The Facade 10d pitch somewhere, let me find it.
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