Nightmare Rock - new routes

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Peter
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Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 4:16 pm
Location: Squamish

Nightmare Rock - new routes

Post by Peter » Sat Jun 07, 2008 6:47 pm

Nightmare Rock - left side above Hypertension/Presto wall:

2 routes that cross so various combinations possible.

The Endodontic Treatment 25m(ish) (mid 5.11?-all gear), starts up the crack up left, higher up the ramp,(pull up the fixed line), follow the diagonal crack right to join the main corner ( a tiny bit gritty) then follow the corner to the top. It's recommended that you back clean this first section to avoid serious rope drag. Crux just before the chains.

It's a potpourri! 25m (bolts + gear) (I have no idea on the grade, sorry, hard 11, low 12 maybe). Starts up the obvious bolted corner and then takes the arete/bulge with 2 bolts, then a crackline on the arete! followed by 1 bolt to chains. Bring all your tricks....

P. Winter June/08

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