Two new routes on lower Apron

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Mr.Sleazy
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Two new routes on lower Apron

Post by Mr.Sleazy » Tue Jun 29, 2004 8:28 am

Hello, Squamish climbers:

Just wanted to post about a couple of new climbs on the lower apron, to the right of the original start of Slab Alley.

If possible, I would like to submit the topo for your free topo section on the site - please email me brianpegg@hotmail.com
For now here is the text of the topo with some details. As with any new climbs, beware the grades as I haven't had much input yet - if you climb it go ahead and post your grading opinion!

The climbs are on the rightmost steep-looking slab immediately left of the Apron descent trail, and both climbs end up traversing left across a series of seams which look like forked lightning from the highway. Pretty clean, except for the first pitch of Frankenstein.



Pimpsqueak

5.11c / 2 pitches

FA Pascal Simard (and Brian Pegg second pitch) April 2004

A sustained sport-plus route with lots of variety.Well protected. Notable for having been bolted entirely by hand.

Access: As per McLane (1999) pg. 233 for Slab Alley (original start). Pimpsqueak begins 20 m before reaching Slab Alley at an obvious line of bolts on the steep slab right of the trail. 10 minutes from road

Gear: At least 10 quickdraws and a single ½"camming unit. Two ropes.

Pitch 1. Climb up technical and sustained slab and traverse horizontally to the bottom of a thin, expanding flake. Lieback up this to the station. An optional gear placement (½ " cu) protects the move to the anchor. [5.11c, 25 m]

Pitch 2. Traverse left on a seam which bisects the entire slab. Mostly bolted, but a ½"cu is needed after the first bolt (ie. grey camalot). Sustained, with good rests and protection. [5.10a, 35 m]



Frankenstein Tradster

5.10a / 2 pitches

FA Brian Pegg and Andy Durie June 2004

An unholy mix of sport climbing and full tradstyle. Excellent, well-protected climb.

Access: Walk up the Apron descent trail until just underneath the powerlines, then hop boulders to the lowest toe of the Apron and the lowest ramp system. Climb up this brushy and unpleasant ramp (4th class) to the right lower end of an obvious roof system. 20 minutes.

Gear: 10 quickdraws and a standard rack. Two ropes. Worth bringing a small saw and a wire brush to clean up the approach pitch and first 10 m of climbing.

Pitch 1. Climb low-angle slab underneath a huge roof, placing solid gear in the dirty crack in the back. Climb out and around the left end of the roof and walk the thin seam to the anchors. [5,10a, 30 m]

Pitch 2. Same as for Pimpsqueak [5.10a, 35m]



Descent (both routes): Rappel with two ropes from a bolted station at the top of the second pitch. The first pitches also share a rap station.

Note: After the second pitch, a link to Slab Alley is possible, likely runout 5.6.
Brian Pegg

meingh
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Post by meingh » Wed Jun 30, 2004 7:03 am

Hey Brian

I just got back into town last night. If yo have not already emailed me the topo's please email them to topo@squamishclimbing.com I will gladly post them tonight for you.

Gary

PS: Keep Up The Good Work.

Peter
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Post by Peter » Wed Jun 30, 2004 3:41 pm

That's what you told me Gary, and it's still not there. :P

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Post by meingh » Wed Jun 30, 2004 3:45 pm

Hey, I was out of town, I am on the staging site right now. I expect the upload will be done before 12 midnight. You can quote me on that.

And a small note. Make sure you hit refresh or change your setting to always check for an updated page. To do that click Tools > Internet Options > General Tab (under Temporary Internet Files) Click settings, select "Check for a new version of stored pages (EACH VISIT TO THE PAGE) Then there will be no tears like last time :)

meingh
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Post by meingh » Wed Jun 30, 2004 11:03 pm

it's not pretty but they're up. check the sanctuary page or the free topo's page. Peter if you got some extra time let me know. I could use a bit of help with the site. No pressure just let me know.

Peter
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Post by Peter » Sun Jul 04, 2004 9:23 am

Good boy. I would be happy to help, that's why I've told you TWICE in the past that I could help you if you needed it. :cry:

meingh
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Post by meingh » Sun Jul 04, 2004 7:13 pm

I will call you or email you then. Thanks :)

Gary

Mr.Sleazy
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Connection to Slab Alley

Post by Mr.Sleazy » Tue Aug 17, 2004 11:12 pm

Thanks so much for hosting my topos.

Barry Mason and I just finished a connector pitch from Frankenstein Tradster (lower Apron) to Slab Alley. Really good route (IMHO) which makes it possible to climb to Broadway on Apron via Slab Alley with a couple of really good 10a pitches thrown in. Topo (Frankenstein Tradster) already emailed this website.

Haven't had any feedback on this route yet, so take the grade with grain of salt (or with several or even many!). My topo says "well protected" this does NOT apply to the last pitches of Slab Alley, which are runout 5.4 in my opinion. BP
Brian Pegg

meingh
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Post by meingh » Wed Aug 18, 2004 5:33 am

The Topo will be posted tonight around 11:30pm.

Gary

meingh
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Post by meingh » Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:15 am


XXXX
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retrobolted?

Post by XXXX » Thu Aug 19, 2004 11:27 am

where is mobius variation in relation to this new pitch?

Mr.Sleazy
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Mobius variation

Post by Mr.Sleazy » Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:09 am

The third pitch of Frankenstein crosses over Mobius near the beginning of the pitch at a thin crack with solid gear (see topo). Mobius continues up from here, while frankenstein traverses left past two bolts.

No Mobius Variations were harmed in the making of this route.
Brian Pegg

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