Unknown Climb, Pixies Corner/Penny Lane

[ctardi]

Okay, when you are walking up the main trail, and turn left to go to pixie's corner, there are a couple of sport climbs in a little clearing on your right. The climb on the left is the one i'm talking about, my guidebook doesn't even show me this wall.

At the top, one bolt had a quick link on it, I added one to the other bolt just for redundant raps. Hope there's no objection, or reason to only have one.

And, the top two hangers are spinning, as is one anchor hanger, but the bolts are fine.

[Brendan]

hmm... sometimes when two bolts that have been traditionally placed side by side about 12" or so apart and have quick links on them for rapping can create unnecessary forces (triangle), which could (but probably never will) pose a danger!

but then again, some people may think that rapping off a single bolt is dangerous!?
new anchors are usually offset (one higher than the other) to eliminate the forced put upon them by the side by side style when rapping...
as for the spinning hangers, just bring a wrench and tighten them!
cheers

[Brendan]

i was thinking about the "triangle" situation, and it probably more aplies to when a sling is tied to the anchors through the quick links creating a true triangle, as opposed to a V.
maybe the rappell is a bit safer, given that the ropes are 90 deg. to each other!?
i don't know, sometimes you don't have a choice, and many people every day rap off this setup! lol...

it's better to tie two individual slings to the quick links and brought down to one link then rap off that! which looks like a V! well, an upside down V...
haha

[ctardi]

I much prefer having two points to rap off of. I do not think that the force of raps is an issue for two bomber bolts...

Got to get a wrench and just keep it in the climbing bag...

[Brendan]

obviously your rappell isn't going to rip out the bolts, but it's something to be aware of, especially if the bolts get used a lot! or when simul rappelling...

[ctardi]

Does anyone know what this is called? I'd think it's a 10, but I don't even know what that wall is...Not in my guide book.

[XXXX]

Where is this in relation to Little Feat and to Multiple Choice?

[ctardi]

My book doesn't have either of those listed in the index.
I've only got squamish select 2004.

[XXXX]

If it's about halfway up to Pixies from the Penny Lane fixed rope, then it's a 5.9. Can't remember the name, see New routes book at George's.

[ctardi]

No, it's just at the trail junction. You are coming up the semi-main trail, you can go straight to the long way to penny lane, or left towards pixies corner and the fixed rope. Standing there, you can see this climb. It is only about 15 feet down the trail towards pixies corner.

[XXXX]

You aren't making any sense. You mean down on the loop trail? You've just gone past Neat and Cool and now you are at the fork where left goes up past Bughouse Heights or right goes over to the stairs up to Penny Lane?

There are two small crags in here. Right at the fork is Pregnant Paws 11c slab and two 10b slab routes. Then 15m up the trail towards Penny Lane fixed rope, Fata Morgana, etc. there is a crag with a 5.9 4 bolt sport route and a 5.6 crack on the right. all this stuff is in the McLane guide.

[CrackHead Brad]

I think the route you are referring to is called "Thumb War" 5.9+. It is halfway to pixie corner on Bughouse heights wall about 5 meters downhill from from the off-width roof crack called Skulldudgery. I put it up last year. It is a good climb but some people think it is a little 'intense'. It's called Thumb War because I really crushed my thumb while bashing in the pre-mentioned belay bolts. OUCH!

[XXXX]

I think 9+ is pushing it for that climb... hardest move is first move.

[ctardi]

XXXX - it would be one of the 10b slab routes. There is a tree on a ledge/flake half way up, and a small flake lower down. Beginning and end are slab.

[CrackHead Brad]

XXXX, you must be thinking of another route cause 5.9+ seems about right.
It is way harder then Penny Lane, Clandestine affair even flying circus. Thumb War has an difficult undercut start with sh it pro and a balancy crux in the upper corner... still thinking of the same climb as me?