The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c (my best guess-need input) This good climb has a devious and technical crux. So named because it was scrubbed over the Christmas holidays.
I think this is a pretty nice climb, continuously perplexing, hard to find sequences, interesting moves. I also think its at least 10c.
A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ Ah, those were the days... SNIP This fun route is a tricky on-site for the moderate leader.
Its a tricky onsight... It also had a loose rock a few clips up, now gone, and when I topped out onto the slab I reached up and used a long heavy, dagger of a rock for balance, only to realize it wasn't attached, just sitting there pointing down the slab, ready to go. Anyhow, both are gone. Personally, I've never met a 5.9+ I wouldn't call 10a, and a friend of mine who leads 5.9/10a worked the route twice on TR, and still couldn't clean it (crux in the mini traverse under the last bolt).
Its nice to have a few warm routes on the way to the Pet, and if you just can't stand waiting in line for Zoe. Thanks!
One of these days James and the Giant Reach will be free, and I will be able to try
Well, Saggy is missing it's start hold now, the rock behind which the big sidepull lived. Its the chalk covered rock off to the right... My friend was on TR when he pulled it, so no nastiness.CrackHead Brad wrote:howdy folks,
Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d this sport climb lies 10 meters north (or by back tracking along the trail toward the lake) from the W.W. This climb features a bouldery start with a bit of a slab thang at the top.
I redid the first bit without it, its a bit different, don't think its much harder, but its more of an undercling. My friend did it by stemming across to the boulder that marks the right hand side of the start area. Don't know if that was on before.
I would definitely class this as a stiff 10c, if not 10d. I found it had multiple cruxes, with a total sting in the butt at the end! I put my friend on it, claiming it was a 5.9 (I was going on memory!) and it proved to be a spicy lead for him... he got the onsite though! Definitely not 5.9 though!
Thanks for cleaning these routes... I look forward to checking the rest of them out with the beta in front of me!!
1. Here are photos of all the new climbs.
2. New route: "Whatever", 5.8. In about 10 minutes, I cleaned a corner just right of "Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips". I cleaned it with just a nut tool and my bare hands... a brush would have been nice though. The climb follows an easy corner to join Saggy Jugs for the final two bolts. It can be used to set up a TR on Saggy Jugs.
3. The future of these climbs remains uncertain to me. As you will see in the photos, there are a lot of trees around. "Layback and Fake it"---a great route---was quite dirty for how recently it was cleaned. This is an issue not unique to this cliff. The trees are winning. Unless this cliff becomes very popular, it will return to the moss. An alternative would be to peal back the vegetation, as has been underway in the bluffs. Whether you are for or against the removal of trees, this is an issue that the Squamish climbing community must address.
4. The climbs themselves are enjoyable. I'd love to see the whole cliff get cleaned up. The second photo of the "Whinging Wife" shows just how vegetated the cliff is on average.
5. "A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete". I think that this is an excellent climb, on great rock, and has wonderful holds. The protection is ample up until the final moves (see the photo). In spite of what Brad says, the finishing holds are really the only ones without sporty protection and are the only ones that are not jugs. One more bolt at the top would make this into a climb that I'd recommend. Finally, "The World's Toughest Milkman" is a steeper 5.9 in the sea2sky, without a doubt.
6. The cliff has a name and it's "Lakeside-in-the-Woods". There's no need to rename it.
7. Thank you Brad for all your hard work. I think that the cliff has real potential.
In the Doghouse is just plain fun. Sometimes you feel silly making those moves, but you're smiling doing it.
A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete gave me some trouble getting from the last bolt to the chains. I'm not sure how I missed the jug that was supposed to be there, so I guess it seemed harder than a 5.9 to me.
Fun climbs, and I plan to give the others a shot.
Needs a PDF topo so more know about them, there aren't many moderates so close to murrin lake. Maybe I'll take a shot in my (non existent) spare time.
> 5. "A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete". I think that this is an excellent climb, on great rock, and has wonderful holds. The protection is ample up until the final moves (see the photo). In spite of what Brad says, the finishing holds are really the only ones without sporty protection and are the only ones that are not jugs. One more bolt at the top would make this into a climb that I'd recommend.
Used to be a jug, you reached up left to a big rock sitting on the slab. Brad said he couldn't shift it when he cleaned the routes, but I pulled it off the next spring.
Having to put your toe on a small hold that is an entire hands breadth above your last bolt isn't actually "run out".
That said, it's probably harder than 10a. I've stuck up a TR for 4 or 5 climbers now on that route, climbers who I'd expect to be able to onsight 10a easily, and watched them struggle even before getting to the last move. Perhaps it's 10c, or maybe you just have to do it right? Of course, if its only easy if you do it right... that means its hard!
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