7 new routes at Murrin park

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CrackHead Brad
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7 new routes at Murrin park

Post by CrackHead Brad » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:04 pm

Hey everybody !
I 've polished a little more granite for us all to play on. Eight new, mostly sport routes are finished on Lakeside in the Woods-south... aka the new Whinging Wife Wall. They are fun and well protected climbs and serve as some moderate (5.8-5.11) warm ups on the way to the Pet wall. I'll post more details and a topo when I figure out how to use these computer thingys. lol.

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Post by meingh » Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:01 am

hey brad,

if you fax me a hand drawn topo I can get something posted for you :) if you have something done, pm me and we can figure it out. Don;t worry about learning how to use a computer ;) you should just focus on working that drill !!!!!!!!

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Post by Climbingjunky » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:55 am

Hey that's awesome, I've been looking for some more moderate climbs for my other friends who are jsut starting with outdoor leading. Are these sport routes mixed, meaning you'll need trad gear or just bolts all the way? Thanks Brad. :)

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7 new routes at Murrin park

Post by CrackHead Brad » Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:35 pm

howdy folks,

heres a little more specific info on those above routes. Take the trail from the lake as if going to the pet but after about 100 meters, you'll come to an obvious clean streak with 5 bolts. This is the most southern route on the wall, it is:


The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c (my best guess-need input) This good climb has a devious and technical crux. So named because it was scrubbed over the Christmas holidays.
sport/chains

Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d this sport climb lies 10 meters north (or by back tracking along the trail toward the lake) from the W.W. This climb features a bouldery start with a bit of a slab thang at the top.
8 bolts/chains

Layback and Fake it 5.10a find this trad route 5 meters north from SJ & CBC. Layback the massive flake fin (bolt), layback the bulge, lay-away the crux, or just layback and fake it.
small/med gear and a couple of bolts/ chains @top

A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ Ah, those were the days... This short climb is probably the steepest 5.9 in sea2sky. Ascend the bolted arete immediately on your left as you enter the gully, about 30 meters north of 'Layback and...' If your not on a jug your doing it wrong. This fun route is a tricky on-site for the moderate leader.
5 bolts/chains

In the Doghouse 5.7 Stem and palm wildly across the gully on this unique sport climb. It is located about 4 meters up the gully from BLMA.
Probably 5.4 if your a yoga master, probably 5.12 if you can't touch your toes.
5bolts

Sleepin' on the Couch 5.10b Although slightly contrived, this steep route gives a good pump. Climb the 'In the Doghouse' bolt line directly without stemming back. Easy to top rope.
5bolts

More then just a Pretty Face 5.10c A great route.(in my opinion) Located north of the gully to the left of an old mossy route called Fearless Fraser.
Starts in a small corner leading to an undercling flake. Some may wish a small tcu for the top
5 bolts/chains


please go and climb em

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Post by Dooley » Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:24 am

Very nice! Shall hit them on saturday!

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Post by Climbingjunky » Fri Jul 14, 2006 7:06 am

Nice work! :)

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Post by Climbingjunky » Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:55 am

Anyone hit this area lately? i was thinking of checking it out this saturday. Anyone working on the topos for it? :)

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Post by meingh » Tue Jul 25, 2006 6:21 pm

I was waiting for a fax but it never came through???

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Post by CrackHead Brad » Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:10 pm

Sorry about not getting you the faxed topo as promised. In all honesty though, you probably don't really need one as all the climbs are close together (within 60 meters) if you just take a copy of my previous post with the climbs listed. Never the less, I will find time to fax in a topo.

Have fun climbing them. I'd be interested to hear what people thought of my grading...

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Post by Climbingjunky » Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:12 am

CrackHead Brad wrote: Have fun climbing them. I'd be interested to hear what people thought of my grading...
Looking forward to climbing them. I'll let you know how they are. Thanks again for posting the info up. :)

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Post by Climbingjunky » Mon Jul 31, 2006 8:23 am

Checked out those routes last saturday. I'll have to say, I enjoyed them very much. The rock is very textured and the climbs vary quite a bit in holds which is great. Slab is always fun.

A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ was pretty straightforward, big jugs til you get to the top which is a little sketchy. The distance from the last bolt to the anchors is a little long, but not hard. The last few moves are kinda slabby and there's not a alot of handholds, falling at the top would be a little scary, but then again slab always freaks me out! The grade seems fair. You can hike to the top of this route and setup a t/r if u want.

The next one I did was In the Doghouse 5.7 Stem. If you are tall then this climb is quite easy. My gf is 5'4 and she had some difficulty stemming. Although you could do the route without stemming, the grade 10b seems a little high. There are few crimpy moves, if you are short, it will be more difficult. Nevertheless, this is a very fun and unique climb. No chains are the top just 2 bolts for anchors. You can hike to the top of this route and setup a t/r if u want.

More then just a Pretty Face 5.10c was my favourite climb. It's a nice long climb and awesome flakes to grab onto. I found only the moves from the first to the 2nd bolt a little challenging, but after that smooth sailing. 10c felt a little high for myself, felt more like a 10a, in my opinion. Again, some moves are height dependent and this particular climb involved more upper body strenght as some parts are a bit overhanging on the flake section but most of the holds were huge, big shelves. Againm, the moves from the last bolt to the anchors is a little long, as mentioned b4 possible some gear would be good but not neccessary as the holds are pretty positive, just don't fall! :)

The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c sketched me out quite a bit. it's probably because I don't climb alot of slab sport routes. From the ground, the route seemed pretty straightforward but as you get to the 3rd clip it seems to get more overhanging and slabby and holds gets more slopey. There are some good crimps, you just have to find them. Some of the moves are bit scary as they involved moving right of the clips and if you fall you take one nasty swing, be careful! The move sfrom the last bolt to anchor is very slabby, trust your feet! This route felt more like 10c/d for me becuase of the sketchyness of the falls and the slabby sections. I found it more challenging than 'More than jsut a pretty face 10c'.

I didn't get a chance to get on Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d, I'll that for next time! It was definetly worth going to that area to climb. All the climbs are very close to each other and it's only about a 5 minutes walk from the parking lot. I'd recommend someone to bring a wrench, some of the bolts on A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ were a bit loose. Further north on these walls, there's looks to be a lot of good trad routes and possibly some potential sport climbs? Thanks again for the directions and putting up these routes! :)

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Post by CrackHead Brad » Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:20 pm

Glad to hear you enjoyed them. It makes the hard work and expense worthwhile.

I guess you and I have very different climbing styles because the routes you thought were easier were the routes I had more of a difficult time with. I'm guessing you excel at steeper routes while I (...way to fat) find slabs and technical face climbs easier. On that note, my sport climbing buddy thought the whinging wife was a sandbag while other friends top roped it blindfolded! (no shii t)

As for leaving the last bolt a greater distance to the anchors, thats a charateristic in some great climbs that I really admire. I like when a climb doesn't give you an easy tick but makes you fight right to the anchors...fight or flight, as long as it is steep.

Anyway, thanks for the imput. I got a bunch more routes in development, maybe you could come climb them and help out with some ideas

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Post by Climbingjunky » Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:10 am

CrackHead Brad wrote:
Anyway, thanks for the imput. I got a bunch more routes in development, maybe you could come climb them and help out with some ideas
I'd love to help out anyway i can with the route development in that area. PM me next time you need a hand or jsut some company for climbing :)

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Re: 7 new routes at Murrin park

Post by ras » Wed Aug 23, 2006 7:07 pm

Only had time to run up In the Doghouse last weekend. It was a hoot, there is something inherently silly about stemming like that, couldnt stop laughing! Will try the others soon, nice to have a range of easier sport routes at murrin. Thanks.

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Clive kessler
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Post by Clive kessler » Fri Aug 25, 2006 3:48 pm

I did The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c on Thursday. I couldn't shake the feeling that that slab would have been better off not bolted.

I wasn't able bear anymore routes like it so I went to the pet.

This is just my opinion.... but anyone who knows me knows that I like some pretty weird routes.

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