Cypress new climbs.

[Uncle Rico]

Good Point Dru... a few of the maillons there are a little rusty, what do you suggest? I figure they'll just get replaced from time to time. RW

[Dru]

Those stainless steel permadraws might be a good idea, because once a maillon gets a certain degree of rusty it can be almost impossible to unscrew when you try and replace.

[dakine]

This is where most of the perma draws come from. If the Mallions are rusted shut you can hacksaw them off pretty easily. I switched out the old nylon draws on Cut to the chase a few years back and had to cut most of them off. I suppose a cordless grinder would work too but with all that water i'd be worried about a dunking.

http://www.climbtechgear.com/cable-draw ... e-or-gray/

[ras]

I'm having trouble finding the current topos for knucklehead and tombstomb, where are they?

[potato]

I'm having trouble finding the current topos for knucklehead and tombstomb, where are they?

check out on http://projectclimb.com/D998EC692B0DA32 ... Falls.aspx

[natsdad]

Hey folks:

Quick report. Went to explore these new climbs after work yesterday and found dry, cool stone and great climbs. The Knucklehead formation was in good shape (but could use more traffic to combat the green machine). We did the two moderate crack climbs ( 5.9 & 5.8 ) and they were both fun, well protected routes. One bit of beta: when approaching the top of the climbs look for a big (fir?) tree on a point jutting out, and behind the tree are some black painted chains for rappelling. You have to look very carefully to find them.

Many thanks to Rolf and others who discovered and equipped these lines. (Tombstone was not possible to climb from the creekbed up - needs more time for the creek level to drop further.)

Steve

[natsdad]

Update to last post:

Creek level is now (just barely) low enough for climbing at the Tombstone.

On 8/12/16 climbed Undertaker - after exiting roof, there is an "X" marked in chalk on left side of crack (and this is marked in red on the photo). That is a loose block that should be removed with a crowbar. However, just above it (also forming the left side of the crack) the rock shifts slightly - and does not support gear placements - I found out the hard way (this is marked in blue on the photo). If visiting, consider bringing trundling tools and do so on rappel. When leading, place good gear just before exiting roof as the next good placement will be a bit further up the crack.



Also climbed Headstone. I thought a #4 Camalot would have been handy just below anchors. A brick-sized rock broke off lower down. Helmets advised for climbers and belayers. Fun route though...might be harder than 5.8 if you're short.

cheers,
Steve

[Uncle Rico]

I had the same experience climbing Undertaker a few weeks ago. I was quite surprised to pull around the roof and stand up on the large juggy flake when the entire flake shifted several inches underfoot. I thought I was going to pull out completely with me standing on it. Presumably this is the sort of loosening that occurs with freeze/thaw cycles.

In it's current state, this route should be avoided until someone takes some tools down there and removes the flake. There're some sizeable blocks there that are inevitably going to come off soon, and hurt someone. Bit of a shame because those flakes are super fun to climb on. Be aware..

Rich Wheater