Stairway Heaven Upper Pitches Status?

[mattm]

Anyone know if the upper pitches (above and climbers left off of Bellygood) are finished? I did the route last spring and the Bellygood pitches as well as those left of the black dike weren't done yet

[5.4 Slayer]

I did it late summer or early fall, it was finished. 40 or 50 foot runnout on the second pitch after Bellygood. Easy climbing, gets the blood flowing though. It will take gear if you have to have it. The Black Dyke pitch was dirty with some loose blocks.

[YetAnotherDave]

I did it late summer or early fall, it was finished. 40 or 50 foot runnout on the second pitch after Bellygood. Easy climbing, gets the blood flowing though. It will take gear if you have to have it. The Black Dyke pitch was dirty with some loose blocks.

Any recommendations for gear to take? Should I take a wirebrush for the 'new' pitches up high?

There seem to be a lot of variations up high, are there recommendations on which to take?

thanks

Dave

[5.4 Slayer]

YetAnotherDave Posted

Any recommendations for gear to take? Should I take a wirebrush for the 'new' pitches up high?

A few smallish to medium cams would work. As for wire brushing, don't bother. A crowbar and a good stiff shop broom would be better but then people climbing on the base of the Grand Wall will die. We made sure we didn't let anything go.

p.s. how does the whole quote thing work?

[5.4 Slayer]

looks like I pretty much got it, thanks

[MCpl]

looks like I pretty much got it, thanks

Click on the "quote" icon on the right hand side of the statement that you want to cite.

[5.4 Slayer]

okay, got it.

[J Mace]

With a name like Stairway to heaven one would think there would be more to say than wire brushes and crow bars would help..

I had a quick look from Belly good ledge on the weekend and didnt see much that inspired me to head up, plus I only had one rope are these pitches finished or still projects ?

In fact the upper pitches of MF off of bellygood looked a tad dirty as well..are these pitches getting climbed or do they just look dirty ?

[Tenn]

The MF pitches above bellygood are fun. There are two pitches that can be strung together in about 58 meters of climbing. A bit of choss in the middle but mostly good face climbing with a fun 10+ move near the top.

This then accesses a ledge with a few other cool lines that lead to gold medal ribbon - which looks quite good. You can also traverse over from there to the last, upper black dyke pitch.

All in all worth the effort in my opinion.

[J Mace]

Thanks man, geuss I will have to have a little looksee next time

Cheers