bluffs new routes

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slhughes
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bluffs new routes

Post by slhughes » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:37 pm

HIGH CLIFF IS GOING OFF. winds of change have recently whistled along the crag and it is now F-R-E-S-H. Added to the general spirit of openess is a brand new crack, opened by Jason Green:

Let it be written that, Fred Snails, 5.10+ is located about 8metres right of Red Nails. It's a finger, to thin hands splitter, steep at the crux and carries on to the top in good form. FA: Jason Green, Stewart Hughes.

Another new route has been opened on the left side of the crag. Three bolts on the slab and a little gear. It's about 5.10+. FA: Travis?

Jason Green and Jesse Redden are almost done with another new one left of Red Nails on the slab.

The top of Red Nails has been cleaned by Jason+Jesse, as well as the 10d and 10a to the right of Red Nails. Actually, they're still a little ripe but you get the picture.

Al and his dog, Ginger have been scrubbing too. It's a party out there kids. Can I get an Amen? I say, CAN I GET AN AMEEEN?

slhughes
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Post by slhughes » Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:05 pm

WHOOPS. FA of Fred Snails should read: Jason Green, Stewart Hughes, Jesse Redden.

Peter
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Post by Peter » Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:41 am

That's good work there Stu, being that it's practically in your backyard I would expect nothing less!!

Whilst we're on the subject of the Bluffs... for the rest of the kids out there, there is going to be some cleaning and rebuffing of Burgers and Fries South, ie Who Needs.... and Libya Sucks area. There will be some anchors added and some cleaning done to open that area up again. This is under the eye of the Smoke Bluff Park Committee.......

gearheart
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Post by gearheart » Tue Jun 26, 2007 6:48 pm

Good work on the cleaning and new-routing at High Cliff - that Fred Snails route looks particularly good. The area as a whole could certainly use more traffic - the routes on both sides of Red Nails are in need of more climbing as they remain somewhat "ripe". While I'm not one to usually encourage top-roping, that crag has some good routes that need more traffic and it certainly is convenient and easy to access the anchors from above.
Todd

jred
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Post by jred » Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:50 am

Peter wrote:That's good work there Stu, being that it's practically in your backyard I would expect nothing less!!

Whilst we're on the subject of the Bluffs... for the rest of the kids out there, there is going to be some cleaning and rebuffing of Burgers and Fries South, ie Who Needs.... and Libya Sucks area. There will be some anchors added and some cleaning done to open that area up again. This is under the eye of the Smoke Bluff Park Committee.......
Yeah, good job with all your hard scrubbing work at High Cliff Stew. How long did it take you?

slhughes
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Post by slhughes » Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:09 pm

well, let me see... when i climbed fred snails, i blew at the cracks maybe four times, pausing each time for perhaps five seconds and, combined with the six seconds it took to clean a foothold... my total scrubbing time cost me about 26seconds. but, if i were getting paid, i'd clock in for thirty. know what i mean. wanker.

jred
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Post by jred » Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:53 pm

slhughes wrote:well, let me see... when i climbed fred snails, i blew at the cracks maybe four times, pausing each time for perhaps five seconds and, combined with the six seconds it took to clean a foothold... my total scrubbing time cost me about 26seconds. but, if i were getting paid, i'd clock in for thirty. know what i mean. wanker.
I was just sayin' that's all, just sayin'.

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