Pixie's Corner Question...

[ctardi]

In the Pixie's Corner area, someone whacked the anchor bolts off of the climb called Trixie. It is a very fun, 5.10d crack, although short. Is there anyone out there who would be willing to re-bolt the climb?

Thank You,
Cam

[tattooed_climber]

you should have told this, i walked right by it today.......hummm....my bolting skills are still developing......but possible....i can use my dads hilti but i think i may be buying a handdrill this winter

[ctardi]

It only really needs one bolt, as there is a fairly stout tree. I would much prefer to use a bolt, and have the tree as backup...but two bolts would be nice.

I would have also done it...except that I lack a cordless hammer drill, or a hand drill.

[tattooed_climber]

ethicly speaking, you have to have premission from the FAer to put in that bolt (and its NOT a safety issue cus there's still a good bolt and bomber tree)


go to elaho.com and send an email to Kevin Mclane (stone@elaho.com i think) and tell him the situation and ask if he has the contact info for Don Serl or Dave Jones (the FAers....and dave jones has done alot of FAs in squish so chances are kevin mclean knows him)

[ctardi]

ethicly speaking, you have to have premission from the FAer to put in that bolt (and its NOT a safety issue cus there's still a good bolt and bomber tree)


go to elaho.com and send an email to Kevin Mclane (stone@elaho.com i think) and tell him the situation and ask if he has the contact info for Don Serl or Dave Jones (the FAers....and dave jones has done alot of FAs in squish so chances are kevin mclean knows him)

Unless I am blind (could be) there only ever was one bolt.

Will email him tomorrow...

[ctardi]

ethicly speaking, you have to have premission from the FAer to put in that bolt (and its NOT a safety issue cus there's still a good bolt and bomber tree)


go to elaho.com and send an email to Kevin Mclane (stone@elaho.com i think) and tell him the situation and ask if he has the contact info for Don Serl or Dave Jones (the FAers....and dave jones has done alot of FAs in squish so chances are kevin mclean knows him)

Unless I am blind (could be) there only ever was one bolt.

Will email him tomorrow...

[Pete L.]

That is an awesome cartoon.

[Strongbad]

I just did that....It hurt.

[ctardi]

I stole it from someone on rc.com...

[Don Serl]

ethicly speaking, you have to have premission from the FAer to put in that bolt (and its NOT a safety issue cus there's still a good bolt and bomber tree)


go to elaho.com and send an email to Kevin Mclane (stone@elaho.com i think) and tell him the situation and ask if he has the contact info for Don Serl or Dave Jones (the FAers....and dave jones has done alot of FAs in squish so chances are kevin mclean knows him)

no need to use a convoluted contact method; yah got me right here.
far as i'm concerned, it'd be a nice community service to add a second bolt to the belay. in 'the old days' we relied on trees a lot for belays, and that's still OK in a way, but the trees can take a lot of abuse over the years as a result. also, many of the anchor trees get eroded around the roots over the years, and their security becomes questionable. i think it's best to 'move on', and to use true climbing anchors on climbs...

as to the larger 'permission' issue, my understanding of 'the rules' is that that while you absolutely need to consult with and get permission from the FA party to alter the protection on the climb itself, it's OK to beef up belays, EXCEPT in a few rare cases where shaky belays and dangerous climbing are an integral part of the whole route experience. in this particular instance the belay isn't shaky, just sorta inconvenient, so maybe the 'rules' are a bit grey, and you've done 'the right thing' in being polite enough to ask. thanks.

p.s. one further ethical comment: while it's fine to 'beef up' belays, i think there's still a fair amount of objection to replacing 'natural' anchors with bolt anchors, especially on trad routes. it happens a bit (especially on popular routes and/or when a multipitch route gets used as a rap descent), but being able to built a solid trad belay is a skill that shouldn't be marginalized.

cheers, don

[ctardi]

Hi Don,
I was up there and did the climb on Friday, using the tree for an anchor. The tree feels solid but I did notice a considerable ammount of erosion around the base, and alot less 'green' than it has been in the past. I took a better look, and it looks to me that there only ever has been one bolt, and it was not that old when it was chopped.

So, to recap, there is only a tree there, no bolt anymore. What do you think should be done there? One bolt and the tree, just the tree, or two bolts?

[Clive kessler]

Chop the tree and put a full station. That way they have no choice but to use the bolts...

[Don Serl]

Hi Don,
I was up there and did the climb on Friday, using the tree for an anchor. The tree feels solid but I did notice a considerable ammount of erosion around the base, and alot less 'green' than it has been in the past. I took a better look, and it looks to me that there only ever has been one bolt, and it was not that old when it was chopped.

So, to recap, there is only a tree there, no bolt anymore. What do you think should be done there? One bolt and the tree, just the tree, or two bolts?

two bolts. leave the tree alone unless it's severely in the way - no need to turn ourselves into loggers.

as for the chopped station bolt, i don't spend that much time around Squamish any more, but wasn't there a spate of station chopping going on a few years ago? did any person and/or reason ever surface? to me, with the increase in usage especially in the Bluffs, the obvious solution is to be adding extra top stations to minimize crowding. doing so can facilitate top-roping, which interferes with leaders' abilities to get onto routes, but that gets sorted out 'interpersonally' all the time anyway. and it's just as possible to TR off trad anchors and trees...

cheers, don

[ctardi]

The tree won't be in the way if we get a couple of bolts up there. Now, who can set this up? I'd offer to, but don't have an appropriate drill, or any experience putting anchors in rock.