Spinning bolts on Currently Coagulating, The Crest at Chek

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riversdreamer
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Spinning bolts on Currently Coagulating, The Crest at Chek

Post by riversdreamer » Sun Aug 28, 2005 9:21 am

FWIW, Bolts 1 and 4 on Currently Coagulating (11a, The Crest Right at Chek) are spinners. I tried tightening the nuts, but the whole bolt shaft turned in the rock. Bolt 4 is on the underside of a bulge and so would take outward force in a fall. A bit unnerving, but the route is very well protected otherwise.

How 'bout a forum that provides beta on bolt/anchor/chain conditions to help identify where sketchy pro exists or replacements are needed? For example, I also found a could of spinners on the really runout pitch of Sparrow on the Apron.

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Clive kessler
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Post by Clive kessler » Sun Aug 28, 2005 10:13 am

Why don't you save everyone the trouble and replace bolts that you are concerned about.

riversdreamer
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Post by riversdreamer » Sun Aug 28, 2005 3:15 pm

1. never done it 2. passed through on a road trip 3. won't be in the area for at least a year. good idea though and i'll consider bringing spares in the future and reading up on how to. i do donate to bolt replacement funds and appreciate those who are interested, available, and able to put in and replace bolts.

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5.4 Slayer
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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Sun Aug 28, 2005 4:24 pm

Personally, I think it's a decent idea.

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bike
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Post by bike » Sun Aug 28, 2005 5:30 pm

Replacing or placing a bolt isn't hard. You just drill a hole to match your bolt. Usually people use 3/8th. Drill about a 1/4 inch less than the length of the bolt. Use tape to mark your bit. Blow all the dust and debris out of the hole. Use a hammer to hit your bolt into place. I place the hanger and washer/in place with the nut right at the end. Hit it all the way till you cannot any more. Make sure your hanger hangs in the way a fall would pull it. Back the nut off a bit. Add some medium lock tight and tighten the bolt as hard as you can with a box end wrench.

Nothing to it! :D

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