New(ish) route at the Top Shelf
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s.l.hughes
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed May 30, 2018 11:54 am
New(ish) route at the Top Shelf
Well, this sorry old site has been largely been usurped by facebook's vapidity. But I'm posting new route info here as there is little point on fb. And I'm not cool enough for squamishclimbingmagazine inclusion. Last season, prior to shoulder surgery, I managed to butcher my way up a challenging mostly trad battle-
'The Korova Milk Bar'. 5.13- 35m FA Stewart Hughes Sept 2017
This route is essentially a second pitch to Ludovico's Technique at the Top Shelf and was donated to me by J.Green who established LT. It was climbed as a combined single long pitch. Pausing at the no hands rest at the anchor of LT, I pulled the rope through the gear on LT to reduce drag. Cross the overhang, passing two bolts to reach the crack on the arete. The rest of the route is all on trad gear, which is good, but often tricky to place. You could actually clean aid the whole thing at C1. Follow the crack feature which arcs away from the arete, rising traverse leftwards to a mad crux sequence as a finale, before a short 5.9 crack leads with glory to an anchor.
Despite clipping 3 bolts and the lower anchor on the route, it retains a trad feel. Probably safe E7 in British terms. It's a journey though. The climbing is tough throughout- even LT after many goes, never felt like a cruise.
Seems like a million years ago now though, as I rehab my repaired shoulder. Hopefully I'll get some 5.8's in with kids soon. If anyone needs some shoulder surgery advice, I would be happy to share my experience. Bring on 2019!
'The Korova Milk Bar'. 5.13- 35m FA Stewart Hughes Sept 2017
This route is essentially a second pitch to Ludovico's Technique at the Top Shelf and was donated to me by J.Green who established LT. It was climbed as a combined single long pitch. Pausing at the no hands rest at the anchor of LT, I pulled the rope through the gear on LT to reduce drag. Cross the overhang, passing two bolts to reach the crack on the arete. The rest of the route is all on trad gear, which is good, but often tricky to place. You could actually clean aid the whole thing at C1. Follow the crack feature which arcs away from the arete, rising traverse leftwards to a mad crux sequence as a finale, before a short 5.9 crack leads with glory to an anchor.
Despite clipping 3 bolts and the lower anchor on the route, it retains a trad feel. Probably safe E7 in British terms. It's a journey though. The climbing is tough throughout- even LT after many goes, never felt like a cruise.
Seems like a million years ago now though, as I rehab my repaired shoulder. Hopefully I'll get some 5.8's in with kids soon. If anyone needs some shoulder surgery advice, I would be happy to share my experience. Bring on 2019!
Re: New(ish) route at the Top Shelf
What? How am I suppose to thumbs up/“like this” if it’s not on FB 
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Re: New(ish) route at the Top Shelf
Zamachat, moodge! Dobby me droog. And oobivat FB! Moloko plus...'The Korova Milk Bar'. 5.13- 35m FA Stewart Hughes Sept 2017
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