New Crag ``The Courtyard

[Tegan]

http://quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp- ... rtyard.pdf

[Tegan]

I think some of those 11`s are 10`s of course its all relative, If your a 10 climber I would still give them a go.

[natsdad]

Thanks very much. If these are like your routes at the Playground, I can't wait to hop on them!

cheers,
Steve

[natsdad]

Yesterday, between raindrops, Steve and I climbed a few of the easier lines here (Mr. Tree, Cyanide & Almonds, Slab Your Face). Developers are right: wear helmets (belayers and leaders) as there are still lots of bits breaking off. The texture of this stone is very grippy. The starts all seemed harder than the rest of the climbs and all seemed quite thoughtful for the grade. Many thanks to Tess, Jason and Kye for establishing another fun crag with a sub-one-minute approach.


Steve

[ras]

We climbed a bunch of the routes at Playground and Courtyard yesterday. Playground is short and fun, and Beautifully Breasted is a really nice route, reasonable length with a series of thoughtful sections.

I have some feedback on the grades:

parental guidance isn't 11d, unless there is some very specific sequence you have to use. I angle up and left after the second bolt, then reach right to the jugs under the third bolt. Took me some time to figure this out, there is chalk on all kinds of not so useful holds. I think its a one-move 11c.

wet the bed would be the first 11d I ever flashed, but I don't think so, its easier than parental guidance, the crux is one 6 inch bump, I think its 11b, though harder if you are short (<5'8)

homeless: its one committing high step, I don't think its 11-, 10d?

beatifully breasted had two technical sequences that had us all hang-dogging in perplexity, even the two of us who onsighted wet the bed. So, maybe its just a matter of figuring out the moves, we'll see when I get a second try, but its way harder than homeless! 11b or 11c?. I think this was the best of the routes we did, interesting movement, consistent climbing. 3 or 4 stars.

Thanks for all the work you put in!


Oh.... and a suggestion for anybody doing the 5.4 and 5.5 at Playground with little kids (5-6 year olds), I suggest putting long, long slings on the anchors, so that they finish the route *before* the ledge at the end. The ledge makes a nice clipping and anchor cleaning location... but kids aren't going to do that. Its intimidating for everybody getting lowered back over a edge onto more vertical terrain, there is a change of direction as you step back off a ledge that can feel very exposed, and I've watched my kids and a bunch of others panicking at the lowering off, and needing someone to come up and give some hands-on support. YYMV, but I think if they lower from right below the ledge, they are on a consistently angled slab, and will find it much easier.

[Tegan]

Thanks for your opinion!
I guess I should have posted the updated topo, here's the changes that have been made due to popular opinion.
The playground
Pee stain 10b
Wet the bed 11b
Recess 10a
Playground bully 11b
Parental guidance 11c
Shits and giggles 10a
No tag backs 10a going around Crux 5.9
The rest remain unchanged


The courtyard
Masters of mediocracy 10a
Slab your face 5.7
People of the sun 5.8
Deceptive 5.10b
The motivator 5.11d (opinions welcome)
Hollow flake 5.10a
Dirtbagger 5.10d
Homeless 5.10d
Big mommas rock 5.10b/c (opinions vary between the two grades)
Tessticles and Egos 5.11?? (Opinions welcome have heard varying opinions, none come close to each other)
Beautifully breasted 5.11b
Everyone's a critic 5.10b/c
Cyanide and Almonds 5.8
Mr.Tree 5.8
Kyes five 5.5

[BruceMacLachlan]

Does anyone have the GPS or a google map location of this crag?
Many thanks