Movin' to Montana cleaned up and ready for action

[scrubber]

Before the rains arrived this afternoon, I finally finished the retro-scrubbing and re-bolting of Movin' to Montana. My sincere apologies to anyone who went to do this old classic over the last two years and had to work around my fixed lines. I don't make the time I used to for route cleaning, and sometimes get distracted for months at a time.

I first did this route in '99 or so, and was quite captivated by its tenuous linking of small discontinuous features. Back then there was still one or two pins on the traverse at the end of the third pitch, and many on the fourth. Nowadays the route has gotten a reputation for being quite runout in that area. From asking a few of the Old Guard, It sounds like the pitch 3 traverse used to be a quite well protected clip-up, with pins every few of body lengths.

Overall, the route had a mish-mash of fixed protection ranging from pitons, (all but one were completely rusted to bits), 1/4 inch stainless, and carbon steel bolts, and 3/8 stainless and carbon steel bolts. Most anchors had at least four bolts of varying age, size, and quality. All bolts that were not 3/8 inch stainless were upgraded, and all of the pins were replaced with bolts unless solid natural pro was available in it's place or close by. Anchors were consolidated to 2 good bolts.

The cracks on pitch 1 and 3 had filled in with soil and weeds quite badly in spots, and got the royal treatment. The small cedar that you wrestled through half way up the tips corner on pitch 1 also had to go. This may up the grade a notch, time will tell.

Please give the route some lovin' this season. It's an inspiring line, and it's easy to imagine the first ascentionist's excitement of leading off into the unknown with a hand drill and some pins. With big exposure and tenuous thin cracks and slab, the route still retains its spicy feel. Even the rap over the big roof to get down is pretty fun.

K

[matt magee]

Oh Man, thanks for putting in the work to clean up this route....I think?

I did this route years ago and remember it being very adventurous and exciting (read scary), definitely at my limit at the time. I was so happy it was done so I wouldn't have to climb it again, but now you've got me thinking....

Thanks for the hard work, this route is a classic and deserves to see more traffic.

[matt magee]

Nice work Kris,
Returned to the scene of the crime today and this route is in fine shape, clean and nice new bolts. There is a little seepage on pitch 3, but it is easily avoided.
Just as exciting as I remembered.
Thanks again for the hard work.

[evenstevens]

Ya thanks a ton! Did this a month ago, so quality. The grades felt hard for sure. Seepage when I did it, just a bit of foot dampness but easily dried off before the business. Amazing pitches, unique and fun climb, kind of a harder/scarier Cruel Shoes.

[pbeckham]

Kris,

Thanks for taking this on.
Movin' to Montana was one of the better adventures I've had on the Chief.
One detail that requires clarification is that the route begins with the long sustained arch that used to be known as Commando Crack.
It's by far and away the hardest pitch on the route and probably still a stout undertaking by todays standards.
If you don't start with this, you haven't done the route.
If I recollect correctly, pitch 3 climbs left over an arch and up onto a blank slab.
I led this without the chicken bolt placed by a subsequent ascent and you definitely didn't want to fall off the unprotected 5.9 moves.
All of the protection including pins and hand drilled bolts were placed free on lead.
I thought the last pitch was both cerebral and sublime linking delicate face moves across perfect golden edges.
The route name was named with a few themes in mind not the least of which was the Zappa classic.
I was also courting my future wife who was from Montana and the route kind of goes nowhere.
Maybe someone will drag my aging carcass up for a look at the hard work Kris did?

PB

[t-bone]

Climbed this route on Sunday and wanted to pass along my thanks for its refurbishment. It is currently in excellent shape, with just a small amount of seepage that can mostly be avoided.

For what its worth, I though the first pitch (2nd if you count Commando) was 11a...to me it seemed harder than the Rutabaga crux. All pitches were excellent and each one had a little spice, but the last one really is the money.

I think this route is very similar to Cruel Shoes in style and quality. As was indicated above, its a bit harder and maybe a little more heady but at least a 4-star route.