new area at Murrin past Quercus

[BK]

why wait til November? September is prime hold gluing season

[dakine]

it's pouring out, what are everyones thoughts on the best drill to use for bolting all those trad routes up in Squamish? maybe a portable generator too?

[smallman]

I am now starting to understand Barley's crankiness with the Squamish climbing community. It gets rather annoying to get sh*t on for putting up routes. As for the mixed climbing conundrum - review this thread. http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... f=2&t=3767 . It seems you are damned if you do and damned if you don't.

Actually I am not surprised J Mace that you disliked Down Amongst the Cedars given the climbing performance I witnessed on the Day that Never Comes. However, I am surprised you would not love Woodstock. You could "french free" climb and yard draw to draw for every move without actually having to get above a bolt. And you would never have to look at a topo or think about route finding as you could just follow the bolts just like in the gym.

[J Mace]

Sorry I hurt your feelings. Thanks for the hard work.

[natsdad]

Hi folks:

I climbed many of the routes at Woodstock this weekend, so I felt I should follow up. I enjoyed the climbing there, but did notice many bolts located near reasonable gear placements. Still the overall feel of the crag is a sports crag and like Pleasant Pheasant, the climbs seem to work well bolted. And many bolts were placed where no natural gear could protect sections.

Also, big kudos to the diggers for the lovely terrace and seating area and for all the hard work building the loop trail leading up to Woodstock. There were lots of people climbing there on Sunday.

Steve

[hevyduty]

hey Natesdad a very diplomatic post .

[Tegan]

I agree with natsdad. I climbed there a week or so ago and it was quite nice the work put into the new loop trail was great and an obvious huge effort, Thanks Brian and crew! As well as the crag itself a lot of effort was obviously put into it. The base being cleared and set up like it is with a total separation from the edge of the cliff you are on the top of is so greatly appreciated by those with children. again a huge thanks for the hard work all! Its been a big hit for some of my city friends. its easy access, friendly bolted lines and moderate grades takes some of the weight off of other crags. Which due to the influx of climbing traffic this year we (locals) should all be thankful for.

[woahmid]

Went there today after seeing the crag last week, and it was really great. Most of the routes feel very, very sporty. Many kudos and thanks to the developers for adding a fantastic moderate sport crag close to Squamish. I'll definitely be back, especially for some of those fantastic 10d lines on the right.

To discuss the bolting ethic, while some of the routes could definitely be mixed lines and perhaps if I had been the one bolting the routes, I may not have placed some of the bolts so close to gear, ultimately I wasn't the one with the vision, time, or money developing this crag, and I respect the developers wishes to make it a sport crag that really adds a lot of warmup routes to an area of Squamish that doesn't seem to have that many.

[matt magee]

Hey All,

Posting this here because of description on how to find Woodstock on an earlier post.
There will be lots of cleaning and rock scaling happening this winter in the gully between Quercus and Woodstock. The best way to get to Woodstock is not down from Quercus, and throughout the winter I'll be closing/posting rock scaling signs at the top and bottom of this gully. The best way to Woodstock is on the new loop trail, go straight (not right at the junction to Commonwealth/Quercus) towards Pet Wall. At the next junction take the right (the straight/left continues to Pet), up and around the corner will be Woodstock. This is probably the shortest approach.

Cheers,

Matt

[matt magee]

Hey,

Big old loose block at the top of Wavey Gravey (I think this is the name. It's the 3 bolt .10d that ends at the mid wall anchor). The block is right after the last bolt and an obvious grab. It's big, wobbles and completly serperated all the way around. Anyone know if Peder reads these things, maybe they can let him know. I would have trundled it, but it seems poised to take out the nice belay bench.
I marked it with a chalky "X" but I imagine the recent rains will have erased my efforts.
Cheers.

[smallman]

The loose block on wavy gravy has been safely trundled by unknown persons and it missed the bench too. It was a very sizable nugget.

[woeisme]

Just a reminder that the seemingly benign and beginner friendly Woodstock area can expose some nasty surprises, especially the newly scrubbed lines on the left end of the cliff. Here's a photo of a chunk of rock that a climber pulled from the S.D.S route. Fortunately it landed on a ledge before bonking anyone at the cliff base.

[ealehnen]

I've been climbing at Woodstock the past couple of nights and having a blast. Fun crag. I've got the topo picture that is on the Quickdraw publications website. But there seem to be more routes (at least 2) at the left end of the crag that aren't included. Maybe they're newer? Is there a more current topo somewhere?
Also, I really appreciate the work that went into making the base of the crag a really nice area to hang out/ belay, etc.
Thanks!