New routes along trail to the Pillary (Area 44)

[enchanted]

I've added a bunch of new routes on a bouldery crag on the trail to the Pillary (Area 44). The routes are short and most have definite crux sections (boulder problems). I haven't been on a rope much at all this year so I'm not too sure of grades. It's also hard to grade route when you know them so well from scrubbing and equipping them. I need help with this from people who are climbing them onsite. If you go give them a try please give me your best guess as to their grades. I had fun developing them. I hope you enjoy them.

Jack Fieldhouse

[jpettigr]

Totally understand the not being able to accurately put a grade on them but any guidelines? You say they're bouldery. Are we talking V2, V6, V10?

[enchanted]

V4 and below maybe. They aren't too hard just have pretty definite crux sections. Their are some easier lines there as well. I'm guessing 5.8 - 5.11+ sort of range for the crag. All routes are bolted but can be easily top roped, as well.

[barbie]

My friends and I climbed there today! It's a fun little crag, but the cruxes on most routes were beyond us. Anyway, here are our best guesses for grades:

Looking at the crag and numbering routes from left to right:
1- (The one with the roof) We didn't try.
2 - We led this and would put it around 5.8.
3 - We led this as well and found it slightly harder, so maybe 5.9.
4 - Top-roped. Most of the route is around 5.10a-ish, but the crux is hard. 11a or harder.
5 - Top-roped. Same as above, but harder crux. This one is at least 11b.
6 - Skipped.
7 - Top-roped. We named this one "Flake of Joy, Bulge of Sorrow." The flake is easy, 5.8ish, but the bulge is something entirely different, mid to high 11s. It's possible to go right above the flake rather than directly over the bulge, definitely an easier option. Another party today led it that way and guessed around 5.10b.
8 - We didn't do, but the other party said it was around 5.9-10a.

I was excited to check out the forum and find out what grades those routes had been given, but instead I'm the first one passing out grades; hopefully more people will chime in with thoughts!

Anyway, Jack, thanks for establishing this lovely little crag. We enjoyed it, and admired the huge amount of work you have put into cleaning and bolting it. Does it have a name?

[enchanted]

Hi barbie,
Thanks for the kind words and for posting your opinions on the grades. Hopefully, more people will do the same and we can get some concensus on the grades. It was a lot of work prepping the crag, seeing as it was completely enshrouded in moss. I chose to scrub the entire crag in hopes that it will slow the moss growth. It was nice to have some help with the scrubbing and bolting, from my wife Shannon and my friend Alec Fernandes. I'm glad you had fun climbing some of the routes. I've named the crag, The Distillery, as the harder routes are quite pure with definite bouldery cruxes. Let me know if you climb the others.
JF.

[enchanted]

[enchanted]

The flake route line does go to the right along the top of the flake then up. The left path over the bulge is a bouldery variation I just had to do.

[barbie]

Ooh, The Distillery is an excellent name! Well chosen.

I look forward to going back and trying the right-side variation of the flake route. The bulge of sorrow was something we just couldn't do... but we're not boulderers, maybe that's the problem