It's still summer so go try THIS new 5.11 Top Shelf Route
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Mike Teschke
- Junior Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:21 am
- Location: Squamish
It's still summer so go try THIS new 5.11 Top Shelf Route
Action Pants, 5.11c, 4 bolts plus gear to #1 Camalot, 25m FA Mike Teschke
Located at Top Shelf to the right of 59er and to the left of Deaf Clutch... you could say that it's between those two routes.
There is an extra 15m 5.8 crack top out with an anchor at the top, the rope drag is pretty bad trying to link the two pitches.
The route starts off with 4 bolts protected the slab and overhanging flaring finger crack. The 4th bolt protects the crux and your rope from being devoured by the crack at the lip of the overhang. It finishes with about 15 meters of 'steeper than it looks' splitter hands to fingers.
Enjoy!
I also climbed one of Robin's new route additions today, the face cracks and seams starting on the wall right of Deaf Clutch, Unshackled? (verify spelling?) 5.9/10- mostly gear with a couple bolts... this could be a really nice route if someone took a pry bar down it and remove a handful of super flexy, crumbly, scary flakes... maybe not as good at Yellow Brick Chimney the 5.10- crack and chimney to the left in the corner under Deaf Clutch...
Located at Top Shelf to the right of 59er and to the left of Deaf Clutch... you could say that it's between those two routes.
There is an extra 15m 5.8 crack top out with an anchor at the top, the rope drag is pretty bad trying to link the two pitches.
The route starts off with 4 bolts protected the slab and overhanging flaring finger crack. The 4th bolt protects the crux and your rope from being devoured by the crack at the lip of the overhang. It finishes with about 15 meters of 'steeper than it looks' splitter hands to fingers.
Enjoy!
I also climbed one of Robin's new route additions today, the face cracks and seams starting on the wall right of Deaf Clutch, Unshackled? (verify spelling?) 5.9/10- mostly gear with a couple bolts... this could be a really nice route if someone took a pry bar down it and remove a handful of super flexy, crumbly, scary flakes... maybe not as good at Yellow Brick Chimney the 5.10- crack and chimney to the left in the corner under Deaf Clutch...
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