New route "Barbarian" on the barbarian wall

[LukeNC]

So... Today I managed to send the last remaining crux pitch on what I've dubbed "Barbarian" up on the Barbarian Wall to the left of the squaw (often referred to as Sonnies arête). This climb is in an absolutely stunning position tackling the huge arête you can see from Valleycliff or when driving into town from whistler. Its a very sustained effort with mostly bolts yet a couple pitches of engaging trad climbing. Most of the climbing once you get to the roof is wildly exposed and i would say (although I'm biassed) that every pitch is classic. I would say everyone I've taken up there has felt the same, haha

On that note id like to thank Sonnie and Scott Milton who both put energy into it. Im amazed it had been left dormant for so long but I'm very happy to be able to say that its good to go and YOU should go get on it!

Also thanks to Luke Irwin, Ben Harden, Marc Andre and Trevor Wood for making the hike up to try it with me.

You access it by hiking up the barbarian wall trail which is about 30m past the two km sign the trails in pretty good shape right now and has flagging tape most of the way.


There are still currently fixed lines up to the crux pitch, which means you can rope solo everything except the roof (free hanging jug) up to the crux pitch. They'll probably be up there for a couple more weeks but they won't be too in your way if you go for it on lead. If you are going to use the lines beware they are very stiff and think so bring an appropriate device.

Gear:
A total of 12 draws with a few of them being extendable. Single set of cams to number 2 Camelot, bring an extra 2 or 3 yellow alien/ metoloius master-cam size and lots of nuts including RP's.


Pitch 1 and 2. (recommended to link) 5.11c
Start to the right of the cave and traverses left along ledges before continuing straight up the slabs on thin edges between ledges. belay at a tree bellow a roof.

Pitch 3. 5.12b The Filter (gear)
Pull the roof and continue up cracks into an awesome flare. Follow as the crack as it thins then boulder up a shallow corner to a bolt and belay bellow the roof. Warning don't place gear behind the hollow flake after the last bolt. Note cant rappel from this anchor with 70m, use alternate midway anchor to the left.

Pitch 4. 5.13b Escape of the Troglodyte
Follow the amazing knife-blade arête to the roof and then boulder into a rest in the cave like feature below the roof. Powerful and airy moves lead to thin handrails left to a hanging belay. A wild pitch.

Pitch 5. 5.12b (Gear)
Barn door moves lead up the huge arête in an exposed position before a bouldery traverse moves rightwards into an awesome crack. The final moves leading back to the arête will provide some excitement before the belay stance is reached.

Pitch 6. 5.13b/c By the Power Of Seuss
This is the serious business, very technical yet powerful climbing with decent holds but very glassy feet. Excellent position.

Pitch 7. 5.12c
A hard bouldery crux leads to some of the best 5.10 in town lead to an excellent top out. Rappel the route with a 70m rope.

Luke Neufeld

The current topo



On the send of the crux today


Ben following pitch 5


Ben following the roof

[slhughes]

fookin high fives, luke. in the bag. i wish i was worthy

[scrubber]

Well done Luke! A very proud line indeed.
K

[hevyduty]

Hey luke you can see the lineup from town!!! good job Hevy.

[marc_leclerc]

It was pretty awesome to climb this route yesterday, even if it was on top rope while Luke was sending. This is one of the best hard routes I've seen anywhere. Just the 20ft arête fin leading to the roof is like the famous arête on Amandla at index, but then there's over 6 pitches of equally classic climbing, never a bad move. This is gonna be a mega classic test peice in the future.

[relic]

Wow Luke, nice effort! What a feature that thing is. Proud.

[LukeNC]

Thanks for all the kind words guys! I was pretty psyched to mange to finish this one off too.
Stewart don't sell yourself short mate, I got on the perfect wife a couple days ago and this thing definitely doesn't require as much power or endurance as that rig ,although you might need to try pretty hard to stand on some of the feet.
I'd be psyched on some feedback if anyone heads up there, i choose to leave the gear protected climbing as is which some people may not agree with as there is plenty of good sport climbing on the route. But I think it climbs excellently as is and provides a much more well rounded climbing experience, requiring the use of all your climbing skills.
Anyway, hope to hear of people getting up there, Have fun!

[squamish climber]

Well done Luke -- an impressive looking and sounding multi-pitch, especially pitch 4. Troglodyte = ancient cave dweller. The cave and arête sound like amazing features. Hope to see more feedback and photos of the route.

[LukeNC]

Just updating the name of the route to "The Barbarians Blade" wasn't able to just edit the original post so just did this instead.