new area at Murrin past Quercus

[tobyfk]

People have been talking about the new area past Quercus at Murrin ... someone called it "Woodstock" over at some other web site. Is there a topo anywhere? Is it any good? Grades ...?

[dakine]

Only thing I could find..

"Peder Ourom is opening another new cliff along the new loop trail in Murrin called Woodstock. Andrew Boyd established a line there years ago, but Ourom is making it a sweet sport crag with lots of mid-range routes."

[imnotnate]

I climbed there last night.

We found a pretty high concentration of 5.10 sport climbing, bolt spacing is tight for the shorter folks.

Easiest way to find it is go to the Quercus cliff, turn left and follow the gully downward on a fresh trail for 5 minutes or so. There's a bunch of ropes hanging on what looks to be future and half-finished lines, keep going to a nicely manicured base area where there's a handful of climbs.

It would likely be quicker to get there from below, but a bit trickier to find if you haven't been there before.

Apologies to the developer if you didn't want this info public yet, but the completed lines had some fun moves and will get better with a bit more traffic!

[tobyfk]

I was there today and briefly met Peder. I didn't get the impression he wants the place to stay a closely guarded secret, but there is more development ongoing still. We did three of the six lines at the left end of the cliff. From left to right, grades are (roughly): 10a, 10a, 10b, 12c (older Andrew Boyd route, partially bolted), 10c, 10d.

[Kyle]

I was there last week and we hit the four on the left not including Boyd's route and agree with the grades. I thought the bolting was a little ridiculous in spots though (closely spaced) even for those that are faint of heart.

[dakine]

Is the 12c open / finished? Are there any other hard routes there?

[tobyfk]

It's 5-10 years old according to Peder. You need to place gear in the first ~10m then there's a very obvious crux area with three (?) bolts linking some shallow flakes. Peder said he was hoping to get Andrew back to the cliff to discuss the line.

[hevyduty]

HI DAKINE the boyd route got climbed recently it will not get more bolts added! there is also anew hard trad line going in with all natural gear , hope that helps hevy!

[woeisme]

This is a great crag on a hot summer evening with a level and pleasant base area. We climbed the three left routes and the two right end routes (leaving the 12c for a I climb I will red-point in my dreams).

I would grade them (left to right) as: 5.9, 10a (but mostly 5.9), 10b, 10c/d (but only through the burly overhung section -- with three closely spaced bolts -- then eases off considerably), 11a (nice start, trivial middle, then fun 11a upper wall).

Nice addition (with more to come) to Murrin.

[slhughes]

nice routes on great rock, stripped of their personality by ridiculous over bolting. is this some sort of baby booming harley ride on a sunday afternoon? it seems that the precedent has been set to go ahead and say f**k it to bomber gear placements, easily set off good stances and drill bolt after bolt until the place is completely removed of character. i could rant and rant about this, but i'm just going to forget it, because it's like swimming against the tide. although i am going to ask future route developers to try and respect the rock a bit more and not steal away great trad routes just because they put the effort in to scrub the cliff and thus claim 'ownership' in style. if you really want to reduce the risk, then set up a top rope. the lead experience of these routes is so sanitized, you're just playing yo' self if you think you are in fact 'leading'. woodstock is a bummer, man. stewart

[slinky]

Hey SLHughes,

I for one and sick and tired of the likes of you critisizing other peoples route efforts. Why do you guys (the ones who identify themselves as "trad climbers" ) think that your particular take on protection preferences is superior? Is it some sort of bullsh*t moral/environmental argument not robbing future generations or leaving the rock in its natural state? both these arguments are f**king stupid as a portion future generations will want very well bolted routes and as far climbers impact on the natural world bolts are tiny blip. Short of heavily manufacturing routes why not let the developer put there own interpretation of how route should be set up, and do the same on yours, live and let live.

What the F**k is up with your "The Man From Del Monte"? There are bolts at the top for convenience lower offs and ease for headpointing "trad" climbers, totally ignoring the fact that there are bomber trees all over the place. What a travesty, eyesore, and unnecessary these bolts are, why didn't you just man up and carry 10 meters of sling up the route with you to rig a proper anchor.

With a 10 year old daughter who is a keen climber, I am ecstatic that there will be a cliff where she can do her first leads and dad won't be shitting his pants. The day I climbed at this amazing cliff I witnessed a climber who must be pushing 80 getting his first redpoints on some of the lines, he was stoked and it seemed obvious to me that this guy's bones would easily shatter in a lead fall of any real length. Why should these two ends of our climbing community be denied an awsome, safe cliff, to practice our incredible sport, f**k you hughes and your elitist, trad bully buddies. My hats off to Peder for having the vision and the backbone to break out of the stupid constraints of ethics and follow his vision of a beautiful, family friendly cliff.

[slhughes]

hi slinky. thanks for your useful comments. you sound like a level headed guy. i'll be sure to keep my mouth shut next time. i do apoligise for arousing such bristling vehemence with my opinion. i would address your eloquent points, but you're making so many assumptive accusations that i'd just rather laugh at your indignation.
sincerely, the mighty hughes

[Squamishmonkey]

May I suggest pistols at dawn?

from another Hughes; I'm less Welsh than your original target but slightly offended by you insulting every Hughes on the planet?

[natsdad]

Hey Slinky and Stewart, et al:

I think the discussion of where and if to bolt is an important one to have. And although I occasionally indulge in a ranting style and an f bomb, I think it is important to keep the tone civil.

A few disclaimers: I have not yet visited this new crag in question. I do not know either of the posters in this "discussion". I'm a 5.10 climber, approaching middle age (although in denial) and the father of a couple of youngsters who are showing an interest in climbing. So I can appreciate the concerns that were expressed by both of you.

My take on this (again *without seeing the crag*) is that when bomber gear placements are readily available, placing bolts should be avoided. There are exceptions, of course. Climbers should come (to the outdoors) prepared to place gear, as needed, and to take reasonable risks. If a climb seems too risky for you or your offspring (or grand-parent, etc.) to lead, there are lots of other options: top rope it, stick clip a low bolt (if one exists), have another climber pre-place some or all the gear, or climb a more suitable climb.

I like the adventure of climbing outdoors, including placing gear - but I also enjoy sport climbing and bouldering. Just because many new climbers are learning in climbing gyms, does not mean that all outdoor climbing should replicate that experience. We need to mentor new climbers (young or very old) to the joys and risks of climbing outdoors.

My 2 cents,
Steve

[J Mace]

I love trad, and I hate sport. But man do I hate sport routes even more that require me to lug half a rack up there to figure out what the one placement is....Down at the cedars has plenty of that if thats what your looking for. Thankfully both of these walls are hardly worth fighting over.

However, can we start the bolt and tree cutting arguments in November so we can have something to talk about?