another 5.13 Top Shelf new route.

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slhughes
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Location: west coast bc

another 5.13 Top Shelf new route.

Post by slhughes » Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:49 pm

hello internet.
'Steel' Neil 'Ding Dong' Dyer has vacuumed up an old project at the ever pleasing Top Shelf:

DEAF CLUTCH 5.13c/d. 20metres
7 bolts. FA: Neil Dyer July 2014

This is the considerably overhanging and impressive line on the leaning wall, left of a wide corner, between '59' and 'The Drang' at the upper tier of the Top Shelf.
Some 1" finger pieces are handy for the easier start and finish. But the meat of the route is bolted.
The name of the route refers to the old biddies who have disregarded the subtle balance of the clutch and accelerator and have become oblivious to raging revs while the car inches forward. Not so much a north american thing, but an everyday event in Wales, where everyone drives standard. It could also be a clue to the restrained torque required to ascend this line.
Neil had very creative beta- we'll see if subsequent suitors can dip the clutch where it matters.
Nice work, Neil.

HAVE rad.
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Re: another 5.13 Top Shelf new route.

Post by HAVE rad. » Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:05 pm

TOP quality climbing Neil!

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