New Trad crag "at" Murrin Park, Down amongst the Cedars

[smallman]

Hi everyone:
So after about 400 hours of scrubbing over 2 summers, one significant injury, a lot of arm twisting and spraying to get help, and several past IPO deadlines due to a lack of foresight on the enormity of the project, my latest scrubbing project is ready for public debut. Down Amongst the Cedars is located about 8 min towards the ocean past Pet Wall just outside Murrin Park. I would like to thank all those who helped me by scrubbing, landscaping, belay slaving, and subsidizing this project: Kevin Henshaw, Mike McCarthy, Sean Clayton, Matt Magee, Ryan Beggs, Jenn Plotnikoff, Bonnie McIntyre (labour and belay slaving), the Squamish Mountain FestTrail crew (landscaping labour), Village Green Landscaping (mechanical advantages) and The Climbers Access Society of BC (some materials). Please respect the last active projects remaining. They took massive amounts of hard labour to develop. A word of warning - this trad crag is like pet wall like in its climbing nature with an old school protection standard. Kind of like Pet Wall used to be like before the bolts. For the routes above 5.9 significant gear placing experience, lots of small gear, and extendable draws for rope management are advised. The topo is located here http://quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp- ... Cedars.pdf

Thanks and have fun

Chris Small

[tobyfk]

Some great names and descriptions there. "Land of Milf and Honeys"!

[hevyduty]

Hi Cris will be down there sunday its always a pleasure to climb at you're crags!. ,unlike some of the developers you don't sanitize the crags!!.the amount of bolts placed next to cracks is a joke ,i climbed at a new area recently and found myself hanging from perfect hand jams clipping bolts!Good job appreciate all the hard work Hevy

[woahmid]

Checked this crag out on Sunday (as did many others, including Chris himself), and I'm a big fan. Lots of good lines, surprisingly burly easy/moderates, good bolt placements, and grippy granite. I'll definitely be back. Thanks Chris for all the hard work!

[smallman]

Someone mentioned to me the other day that some of the climbs on this topo lack quality ratings. This is not an indication of quality just that I felt I had a limited sample size of reactions to get a proper consensus rating. Just like with actual difficulty ratings.

[woeisme]

Had a chance to visit this new crag recently during one of our incredible hot summer evenings. Only got on two climbs with the best being the mixed route "The Day that Never Comes" rated at 5.9. I found it stiff for the grade and might opt for a 10a/b rating, especially in the bolted lower section which requires some thought. Maybe I wasn't finding the 5.9 sequence. The lowest part of this section is also wet and may be wet for long periods of time.

Note that the area features a bit of a wet bog so be prepared for some mosquito visits.

[Sunday]

Great job on this serious undertaking! Started on woman up and mechanical advantage; both deserve a few stars and felt high in the grades. We then top roped feeding the rat and lost and found, again both are excellent climbs and will get the proper send in the future.
We didn't encounter any Mosquitos or sun on a hot Saturday morning.
Note to all the milfs out there - this is a child friendly crag, no cliff dangers and a nice flat space all around.

[smallman]

Update: I completed the FA of Hatchett, Axe, and Saws-All Sept 6th so it is now available for your climbing pleasure. I estimate the grade as 11- dependent on your height. Also Dirty Divorcee, the extension to the Land of MILF and Honeys, is now an open project. So some of you hardcores should get this and the other open projects at DATC.

Chris Small

[smallman]

I have posted an updated topo at on quickdraw publications site (http://quickdrawpublications.com/wp/wp- ... Cedars.pdf
. Dirty Divorcee has been climbed (FA. Ben Harnden, 2014, 12c). There are still several open projects down there though......