Prow Wall, new route: "Written in Stone" 11d
Prow Wall, new route: "Written in Stone" 11d
Follow this link for more info:
http://squamishclimbingsource.com/written-in-stone/
FA: Colin Moorhead & Andre Ike June 12 2014
http://squamishclimbingsource.com/written-in-stone/
FA: Colin Moorhead & Andre Ike June 12 2014
Re: Prow Wall, new route: "Written in Stone" 11d
I got on this route the other day and thought I'd offer my quick opinion. It is a great route and more techy than the other 5.11 multi-pitch climbs the Chief has to offer. It is in a wicked position that offers perfect views of Squamish Buttress/Buttface along with the intimidating Prow Wall. There were climbers on the Elevator Shaft pitch on the Prow Wall as we were climbing and it looked amazing from our vantage point.
It deserves many stars and is well worth seeking out. It is obvious that an enormous amount of effort went into making this climb and it shows. The bolts and anchors are well thought-out and positioned. Each pitch offers thoughtful climbing and none are a gimmie. All of the pitches offer quality climbing with the highest quality and memorable pitches being the final few.
I thought the grading was fairly accurate with my experiences. Although I found the crux on the 11b pitch to be rather difficult, but perhaps I was not climbing it as efficiently as it could have been done.
With the exception of the final crux pitch, all crux moves are bolted. Having said this, the final pitch protects super well.
The rack suggestion was spot on in our experience. If you're thinking about leaving the #4 at home, I'd advise against this. Where it is most required is not very difficult (start of P3), but it is not super secure here and a fall would likely result in a fairly serious injury. It can also be used towards the ends of P4 and P7, but optional if you're comfortable running it out a bit.
The climb is still a little rough around the edges given it's recent birth. Wear a helmet as tiny rocks/crystals and vegetation were coming down here and there, especially on the early couple pitches.
We started the climb around midday and the sun was on us the entire time after the first couple pitches, which was a mistake as it was a scorcher of a day. Wait for a cool/overcast day or climb this route early in the day when it is shady. This is my biggest takeaway from the day!
Anyways... enough with my beta. Go climb it and have an adventure!
Thanks for another great route Colin and Andre!
It deserves many stars and is well worth seeking out. It is obvious that an enormous amount of effort went into making this climb and it shows. The bolts and anchors are well thought-out and positioned. Each pitch offers thoughtful climbing and none are a gimmie. All of the pitches offer quality climbing with the highest quality and memorable pitches being the final few.
I thought the grading was fairly accurate with my experiences. Although I found the crux on the 11b pitch to be rather difficult, but perhaps I was not climbing it as efficiently as it could have been done.
With the exception of the final crux pitch, all crux moves are bolted. Having said this, the final pitch protects super well.
The rack suggestion was spot on in our experience. If you're thinking about leaving the #4 at home, I'd advise against this. Where it is most required is not very difficult (start of P3), but it is not super secure here and a fall would likely result in a fairly serious injury. It can also be used towards the ends of P4 and P7, but optional if you're comfortable running it out a bit.
The climb is still a little rough around the edges given it's recent birth. Wear a helmet as tiny rocks/crystals and vegetation were coming down here and there, especially on the early couple pitches.
We started the climb around midday and the sun was on us the entire time after the first couple pitches, which was a mistake as it was a scorcher of a day. Wait for a cool/overcast day or climb this route early in the day when it is shady. This is my biggest takeaway from the day!
Anyways... enough with my beta. Go climb it and have an adventure!
Thanks for another great route Colin and Andre!
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