New Start to Cerberus

[marc_leclerc]

Put up a new start to Cerberus on the Tantalus wall. It starts off the same ledge as the aid line 'Wrist Twister', approach up the Bullethead Gulley, fixed lines in place. The new start dries extremely fast and provides an alternative to the slow drying 'Milk Run' or Tantalus Crack. It is very high quality as well, as good as anything else on the Tantalus Wall including the blockbuster corner of Milk Run imo. Bring a single set of cams from tips (blue metolius) to hands (red Camalot) and loads of draws for the bolts and Cerberus.

Catharsis Crack - 5.10d
FA - Marc-Andre Leclerc (solo, aid)
FFA - Brette Harrington, Marc-Andre Leclerc (into Cerberus)

P1 - From the ledge at the base of Wrist Twister, climb down and left 10ft (fixed line) to reach the start of a prominent dyke. Climb the lovely dyke to reach the left trending flake system, sustained underclinging leads to a surprise crux around half way. Continue up the flake system to a bolted belay, be wary of hollow rock nearing the end of the pitch. 5.10c/d. 9 bolts + gear. uper fun.

P2 - Face climb on a dyke, passing a flake (sketchy gear option) past two bolts to join the first pitch of Cerberus. Continue up that route. 5.10b. Bolts. Kinda runout in a place or two, but generally easier- ish...

Enjoy!

[marc_leclerc]

No clue why this posted twice. If someone deleted one of these that would be great. Cheers!

[scrubber]

Good on you Marc! I've wondered for years if a good alternate start was hiding in there somewhere. It's interesting to note that Cerberus was actually a full length route when it was established on aid BITD. The original start is somewhere in the bushes to the right of Yosemite crack, or so my old guidebooks say...

K

[tsouth]

Did the route on Monday. Quite a fun way to get into Cerberus. The pump on the first pitch is killer though! Awesome line.