Auntie Gravity area

[Jeff Thomson]

My son Hamish and I started cleaning up this small crag yesterday. We still have a bit more cleaning to do on the 5.9 and the 5.11, but Auntie Gravity, the 10b, is much cleaner now. More importantly we replaced the manky 1/4 inch bolt near the bottom of that route.

I have never had so little trouble removing a bolt, it literally popped out with one tug. I also removed the pin up higher on the route. It was even worse than the bolt and snapped off with a very light tap of the hammer. I am convinced it would not have held a fall! I did not replace the pin as it was only 8 inches or so above excellent natural protection. Also, If you climb the route, look for another old broken off Piton in the crack a few feet above the bolt. We wondered if that simply rusted away or broke during a fall! Al that should make you think twice when you clip into some old pin on a route!

We plan to get back up there when I return from a business trip and replace the bolts on the 11a, "Don't Believe the Hype", which by the way has 4 bolts and not 3 on it as indicated in the guides.

Hamish also scrubbed off a nice Boulder down and in front of the wall which has a nice long V1 lip traverse and a short V0- traverse on it. There is a lovely project waiting for a strong person on the Prow of the boulder. A photo of the boulder I hope will soon be up on the Quick Draw Publications Website.
Jeff Thomson

[jred]

Good job those are fun routes. Looking forward to climving Silly Putty when it is finally clean again. Thanks.z

[tobyfk]

Was looking at Silly Putty today after doing all the other routes there. Didn't realise it was an established route as 1. it's not in the Select guide and 2. it's dirty with a tree growing out of it, but I then found it in an old McLane guide. Has anyone ever done it? Would it be worth cleaning and re-climbing it? Looks fun ... like a moderate version of The Bull.

[hevyduty]

hi Toby i climbed SPutty long time ago! the whole area is overgrown ,however this winter I'm working in boulder gully the entire area is going to get a 5 star cleanup BGully The pleasure plalce and Anti gravity wall will all get cleaned up .also the park is going to build a new trail into BG.Im always looking for good help so if you have time this winter get in touch Hevy

[hevyduty]

hi Toby the crag is an old barley area there about 15 routes buy sadl1y lots of crap anchors etc be coming overgrown