plum pudding
plum pudding
hey there.. say, anyone know what the dealio is with the route(following the thin corner) just to the right of "poultry in motion" at gob smacking wall??
it's a delight. thanks to whoever cleaned it off!!
brownie
it's a delight. thanks to whoever cleaned it off!!
brownie
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- Junior Member
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- Location: Powell River, formerly Squamish
Re: plum pudding
Hi Brownie,
I started the initial cleaning on that line about 5 yrs ago...
Finally got around to finishing it a couple months ago.
It's called "Styrofoam Window" and it's 45m long. 5 bolts plus a few small cams.
Alternate start to the left skips one bolt and uses a couple more cams from 0.5" to 0.75".
I figure it's about 10a/b... what do you think?
It's a good warm-up for the 2 awesome older routes to the left.
I started the initial cleaning on that line about 5 yrs ago...
Finally got around to finishing it a couple months ago.
It's called "Styrofoam Window" and it's 45m long. 5 bolts plus a few small cams.
Alternate start to the left skips one bolt and uses a couple more cams from 0.5" to 0.75".
I figure it's about 10a/b... what do you think?
It's a good warm-up for the 2 awesome older routes to the left.
Last edited by mcfly on Sun Apr 21, 2013 10:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: plum pudding
Hey Mcfly, thanks for the response!
Great work on the scrub..
it's definetly a nice sustained 10, although at the 3rd bolt coming around the bulge it felt like a 10+ move similar to some of the climbing on Unfinished Symphony. It was the first climb of the day though so that could be a factor.
cheers
Great work on the scrub..
it's definetly a nice sustained 10, although at the 3rd bolt coming around the bulge it felt like a 10+ move similar to some of the climbing on Unfinished Symphony. It was the first climb of the day though so that could be a factor.
cheers
Re: plum pudding
Hi Mcfly,
Are you also working on the central chimney line on the cliff? If so is it done and what grade is it?
Are you also working on the central chimney line on the cliff? If so is it done and what grade is it?
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- Junior Member
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:35 am
- Location: Powell River, formerly Squamish
Re: plum pudding
I don't know who is scrubbing that route.
Re: plum pudding
Climbed this line on the way down from Chewbacca. Many thanks to those involved in the cleanup and bolting - its a really nice addition to the area.
I climbed the direct (bolted) start and placed a .5 and .75 in addition to the bolts. The climb is well protected and has some cool, technical moves. In terms of grading, I'd suggest 10b - it has similar movement to Unfinished but I didn't think any move was as tough as the 10d cruxes on that route.
I climbed the direct (bolted) start and placed a .5 and .75 in addition to the bolts. The climb is well protected and has some cool, technical moves. In terms of grading, I'd suggest 10b - it has similar movement to Unfinished but I didn't think any move was as tough as the 10d cruxes on that route.
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- Junior Member
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:35 am
- Location: Powell River, formerly Squamish
Re: plum pudding
Thanks for the feedback t-bone. So far, from what I've heard, consensus has the grade at 10b. Glad you enjoyed it and stoked to hear that it's getting climbed! There are some technical moves and hidden holds - if you don't figure them out and just slab climb then the route will likely feel harder.
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Re: plum pudding
Is there a topo or any photos? I'd love to get on it..
Thx.
Thx.
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