Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads

[AaronRN]

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u41 ... 7ac409.jpg

[Brendan]

Cool, something new and moderate to go do!

For the record, Liquid Gold is awesome. I didn’t find it too awful like the new description, although I did run it from the last bolt to the gear belay on p1 to avoid horrendous rope drag. But there were a few places to put gear in should one want to.

[AaronRN]

A little back ground:
First the name. The “Gold” bit is in reference to the fact that this is a variation to the established route Liquid Gold. “Krimo” Is the nick name of my friends Kristen Wurtele and Remo Trovato. I created and named this route in their honor and gave it to them as a wedding gift this summer. I knew it wouldn't be enough to just create and name a route after them, so instead I created and named one of the best routes in Squamish after them. In fairness the “best route in Squamish” comes on the coat tails of the final pitch but the new lower pitches are no slouch and at the risk of jinxing it, this is going to be the standard variation parties are going to climb to reach that final pitch. Reason being. It’s easier, and unless you like run out slabs and broken chimneys, it’s better. You don’t need anything bigger then a number 2 camelot to climb the lower pitches.

I’m no stranger to route development, but this project was without parallel. It’s development was the most labour intensive route I’ve ever endured. Jeremy Firmers recent article “The First Rule of Dig Club” in this August issue of Gripped captures well what was involved. Last winter I almost pulled the pin on it on several occasions. The only thing that brought me back was the involvement of Luke Cormier. So a big thanks to him.

As you can see in the topo there’s a bolted station out to the left. This marks the top of some projects. Luke and I will be back at it when the weather cools and the crowds thin out. Stay tuned. Until then please enjoy Krimo Gold.

Aaron Kristiansen

[evenstevens]

Did this today...a worthy outing thanks for the effort; it is essentially a different access to Liquid Gold's premier pitch. The 'new' description is a bit off, the photoshopped edit of the guidebook is a bit misleading as it is NOT written by Marc Bourdon. Although this is a good route, it is not worthy of the top 100, maybe 3 stars all because of the last pitch of liquid gold. It is a bit harsh that the unique and cool climbing of Liquid Gold's first few pitches get so slandered in the description! We have so little wide and chimney climbing in Squamish, that a route like that would be good prep for Yosemite or the desert so don't be afraid. Remember this is just my opinion, go out and try for your self, it is worth that effort for sure!

Couple of bits of reflection on the topo/climbing of Krimo Gold. First 2 pitches link together with out too much difficulty and lots of long slings at 10b and its 55m. The next pitch has some nice bolts to get you through the crux in the first 10 feet and then cruiser fun climbing to the tree. Watch out above as there are a fair number of loose blocks and a manky fixed line through lots of dirt and shrubbery to get you to the big comfy ledge. You could easily rap from the top of P. 3 with one 60m rope. The liquid gold pitch takes tons of different gear, I was saving gear for the long 63m pitch to the rim from the ledge, but starting with a double set to #4 camalot as the description says, I ended up with a full set of camalots on may harness at the top. Nuts and finger gear go in everywhere. 1 3 camalot and 1 4 camalot are all you need, you can probably go with out the 4 too but then take a second 3 camalot but I also have big mitts, I guess the big gear rack was for Liquid Gold's first few pitches, not Krimo Gold.

Thanks again for the new pitches.

[Dru]

It's worth noting that the first few wide pitches of Liquid Gold were actually originally climbed as a route in their own right called Half Moon Chimney, previous to Liquid Gold being done. Details are in the old Campbell guide.

[AaronRN]

The photoshopped edit of the guidebook is a bit misleading as it is NOT written by Marc Bourdon.

True, I made the topo.

First 2 pitches link together with out too much difficulty and lots of long slings at 10b and its 55m.

Awesome! Originally I had the top of pitch one end at the far left end before the dog leg and end of the difficult climbing. Jeremy Firmer repeated the line after our FA and called it 5.11a. Suggested moving the anchor down to break up the tricky bits, this would make the first two pitches consistent in grade and difficulty at 5.10c. I agreed and made the change. I would love to hear more feed back on the grade and reach some conciseness.

Aaron Kristiansen

[Chris155]

I climbed it the other day and thought the grades were fair !
Short committing crux on 2nd pitch , or so I felt !
1st pitch of Liquid Gold was greasy in the shadows of the tree canopy.. Happy I was not on the sharp end for that.
Nice work overall for a great variation to LG !

[scrubber]

I was the one who climbed it with Jeremy. We had a great time! Thanks a lot for your commitment to see it through. I know how daunting tree-filled pitches can seem when progress is going slow. I think with the anchor moved down from the top of P2 as mentioned, it will split up nicely.

Can't wait to see what you guys do with the rest of it this winter. It certainly would be nice to clean a bit of a path through the trees where the fixed rope is, and it looks like that bit of a gully will keep much of the debris from the upper pitches from fouling the work you've already done.

K

[hans]

So I was up.there yesterday and climbed Liquid Gold for the first time. Wow, that route is amazing! FWIW I thought the wide parts were a lot of fun, and pretty burly. Highly recommended.

Having said that, Krimo Gold looks good too. Certainly worth doing if you have already done Liquid Gold. Thanks for the work.

[camU]

Aaron,

Got on this yesterday on a perfect Squamish day. good work, and you guys must have removed a ton of earth of this...i definitely enjoyed the 3rd and Last pitch of this the most. I felt the grades were fair, but I've not lived close to squamish for a while, and it's the first route I've been on there in over a year.

we did it on 50 doubles, which worked well and we belayed on the horizontal ledge before the left facing corner on the top pitch with no trouble.

Thanks again for cleaning up and bolting a decent alternative start to this amazing pitch.

c

[Brendan]

it's the first route I've been on there in over a year

we did it on 50 doubles

You really have been out of town a while - are you sure it’s only been a year?

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Although Krimo looks primo, I have to give a big note of support to Liquid Gold. It offers excellent, varied, and sustained climbing throughout the route; a very worthwhile outing contrary to the above description.

Stoked to checkout Krimo at some point as the lower pitches do look good, thanks for all the hard work! Super nice to have another multi-pitch route in the bulletheads!

[jstod]

Although Krimo looks primo, I have to give a big note of support to Liquid Gold. It offers excellent, varied, and sustained climbing throughout the route; a very worthwhile outing contrary to the above description.

Agreed. Worth noting as well that the dreaded chimney pitch is about as friendly as you'll find and is actually pretty fun! Definitely not the grovel-fest we were expecting. I'd think most climbers who feel ready to give a reasonable shot at the top pitch (or the 1st and 2nd for that matter) won't find the chimney too bad.

Julian