New Routes Cream of White Mice area

[squamish climber]

Glenn Woloski sent me some topos of some new routes he and Robin B have put up. This area is in the Bulletheads in the vicinity of Cream of White Mice. Robin calls it Cream Buttress. Looks like a couple of nice easy to medium moderates in here. FA Robin Barley and Judy Komori

[squamishbeta]

Robin Barley alone deserves credit for these routes!
Glenn

[gnarnaphobe]

Some high quality friction climbing in this area folks! And its all dries incredibly fast except the standard corner finish of Cream of White Mice.

-First pitch of Two Rats and a Titmouse(CoWM starts of the groove on the right and steps onto the Arete at the 5th bolt.)

-P.Y. jams up the 2nd pitch of CoWM (TR&aTM steps to the right side of the Arete from the belay and pads up sustained 10+*super quality*)

-CoWM Direct finish 10+ granite face climbing*super quality* (Corner on the right is the .11- final pitch to TR&aTM *technical face climbing*)



Gear recommendations;

Cream Direct- 8 quick draws and a light rack to 2"

Two Rats and a Titmouse- 12 quick draws

The Sunshine Chimneys Provide an adventurous approach;

[squamish climber]

Thanks for the photos Luke - looks like great climbing.

[dirtmcgirt]

I did the direct start of CoWM (.10ish slab and committing between 3rd-4th bolt), continued up past the 5.4 scramble, then got confused... Anyway, since there was a plethora of climbs I chose the obvious bolted line in the corner crack that dissipates (to the right of the dyke) which appears to be Two Rats & a Tit Mouse. Precarious climbing on great rock brought me to the top in only 3 pitches. I would've guessed it to be about 10+. I was so pleased to be working on my slab climbing I hardly noticed I had a double rack around my waist. Thanks for the route! Til next time CoWM...

[psi4ce]

What's with all the F'n staples up in the CoWM area???

[Lurch]

staples=Barley

[J Mace]

Go whine about staples somewhere else...

[al pine]

Go whine about staples somewhere else...

Well when an engineering test commissioned by Barley himself resulted in a mean failure of 2kN on his staples, I'd certainly like to know what (staple) routes to avoid....even if they are the "new and improved" Barley staples.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all of RB's work and do enjoy the majority of his routes. But putting his arrogance/ignorance ahead of the safety of our community by ignoring common and accepted practices...yes please whine away.

[Lurch]

I once read a statement on the Smoke Bluffs chalkboard, it said "Don't climb on staples". I didn't understand at the time because I had not seen one yet. As soon as I clipped one though, I agreed wholeheartedly.

DON'T CLIMB ON STAPLES!!!!!!