The crack furthest right from the Buttress

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NateDoggOG
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The crack furthest right from the Buttress

Post by NateDoggOG » Thu Jul 21, 2011 3:58 pm

Just climbed the original Buttress pitch for the first time the other day and was admiring the .12 cracks to the right of them.
They look like they have a lot of potential.
I know they have been climbed and named, although I don't have my book on me and can't think of the names off the top of my head, but they were looking a little grubby.
One of these days when I have time (and the energy to book it to the top) I am thinking about going and giving the rightmost crack a refurb...... I feel like it looks like it would be the most interesting due to the pure splitter aspect.
Also looks like once it's cleaned, it will make a nice (even if difficult to get to) testpiece, one which I will be working on.

Anyone climbed any of these routes, have any input? Would you recommend one of the other cracks over the far right one?

Brendan
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Re: The crack furthest right from the Buttress

Post by Brendan » Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:54 pm

I was up there back in ’99 when John Rosholt (RIP) and Hamish Fraser were scrubbing Progress Can’t Wait (leftmost crack) and Gemini (rightmost crack). John was saying how neat Gemini was because it required an unlikely traverse from one crack to the next, etc. If you scrub them I bet a bunch of us will come climb them ;)

Lurch
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Re: The crack furthest right from the Buttress

Post by Lurch » Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:18 pm

Scrubber was talking about re-scrubbing these on my thread. You should talk to him Nate!

scrubber
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Re: The crack furthest right from the Buttress

Post by scrubber » Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:15 pm

Gemini, which takes the farthest right crack, then steps over to the next one left part way up, and Heatwave, the next one to the left, are the highest quality lines. Progress Can't Wait is the leftmost one and is actually the continuation of the crack you start the crux pitch of the Squamish Buttress on.

If two people went up there and hung ropes side by side, I think all three routes could be re-cleaned in a day. If the wind was blowing at all, you'd have to give the Buttress pitch a dusting after you were done too.

I am loosely planning on doing this sometime this year, but it likely won't happen until mid-june at least. If anyone wants to beat me to it I wouldn't mind. I'd probably even donate some scrubbing ropes toward the cause...

Kris

NateDoggOG
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Re: The crack furthest right from the Buttress

Post by NateDoggOG » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:25 pm

Once I get a vehicle and can book it up there after work some day during the week, then it's a venture I would definitely be willing to invest in.

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