Two new routes on lower Apron

[Mr.Sleazy]

Hello, Squamish climbers:

Just wanted to post about a couple of new climbs on the lower apron, to the right of the original start of Slab Alley.

If possible, I would like to submit the topo for your free topo section on the site - please email me brianpegg@hotmail.com

***Topo's Now Posted***
http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... _topos.htm Gary

For now here is the text of the topo with some details. As with any new climbs, beware the grades as I haven't had much input yet - if you climb it go ahead and post your grading opinion!

The climbs are on the rightmost steep-looking slab immediately left of the Apron descent trail, and both climbs end up traversing left across a series of seams which look like forked lightning from the highway. Pretty clean, except for the first pitch of Frankenstein.



Pimpsqueak

5.11c / 2 pitches

FA Pascal Simard (and Brian Pegg second pitch) April 2004

A sustained sport-plus route with lots of variety.Well protected. Notable for having been bolted entirely by hand.

Access: As per McLane (1999) pg. 233 for Slab Alley (original start). Pimpsqueak begins 20 m before reaching Slab Alley at an obvious line of bolts on the steep slab right of the trail. 10 minutes from road

Gear: At least 10 quickdraws and a single ½"camming unit. Two ropes.

Pitch 1. Climb up technical and sustained slab and traverse horizontally to the bottom of a thin, expanding flake. Lieback up this to the station. An optional gear placement (½ " cu) protects the move to the anchor. [5.11c, 25 m]

Pitch 2. Traverse left on a seam which bisects the entire slab. Mostly bolted, but a ½"cu is needed after the first bolt (ie. grey camalot). Sustained, with good rests and protection. [5.10a, 35 m]



Frankenstein Tradster

5.10a / 2 pitches

FA Brian Pegg and Andy Durie June 2004

An unholy mix of sport climbing and full tradstyle. Excellent, well-protected climb.

Access: Walk up the Apron descent trail until just underneath the powerlines, then hop boulders to the lowest toe of the Apron and the lowest ramp system. Climb up this brushy and unpleasant ramp (4th class) to the right lower end of an obvious roof system. 20 minutes.

Gear: 10 quickdraws and a standard rack. Two ropes. Worth bringing a small saw and a wire brush to clean up the approach pitch and first 10 m of climbing.

Pitch 1. Climb low-angle slab underneath a huge roof, placing solid gear in the dirty crack in the back. Climb out and around the left end of the roof and walk the thin seam to the anchors. [5,10a, 30 m]

Pitch 2. Same as for Pimpsqueak [5.10a, 35m]



Descent (both routes): Rappel with two ropes from a bolted station at the top of the second pitch. The first pitches also share a rap station.

Note: After the second pitch, a link to Slab Alley is possible, likely runout 5.6.

[Peter]

That's what you told me Gary, and it's still not there.

[Peter]

Good boy. I would be happy to help, that's why I've told you TWICE in the past that I could help you if you needed it.

[Mr.Sleazy]

Thanks so much for hosting my topos.

Barry Mason and I just finished a connector pitch from Frankenstein Tradster (lower Apron) to Slab Alley. Really good route (IMHO) which makes it possible to climb to Broadway on Apron via Slab Alley with a couple of really good 10a pitches thrown in. Topo (Frankenstein Tradster) already emailed this website.

Haven't had any feedback on this route yet, so take the grade with grain of salt (or with several or even many!). My topo says "well protected" this does NOT apply to the last pitches of Slab Alley, which are runout 5.4 in my opinion. BP

[XXXX]

where is mobius variation in relation to this new pitch?

[Mr.Sleazy]

The third pitch of Frankenstein crosses over Mobius near the beginning of the pitch at a thin crack with solid gear (see topo). Mobius continues up from here, while frankenstein traverses left past two bolts.

No Mobius Variations were harmed in the making of this route.