calchek basalt - update on the approach tyrolean and ladders

[ras]

Maybe everybody knows... but the basalt at calchek looks great rock, with tons of potential for route development. However, do not use the the "Whistler Rockclimbs" instructions to get there...

The Tyrolean is still there (a pulley is NOT optional, I wore half-way through a dmm locking beaner getting across), the bee nest in the path is no big deal (if you are the first person through, and wear long pants and boots), but the swiss family robinson contraption is no more. Half is rotted away, one of the ladders was smashed into tiny twisted bits of aluminum (can't even imagine), etc. We got up by leading up, tieing off to bits of root and the hanging ropes... sketchy. And periodically interrupted by the terrified scream of a bungie jumper diving headfirst towards the river.

However, once there, the routes looked nice, and we walked out the left, down river side.

If you go, park at the Whistler Bungie jumping bridge, walk across the bridge (open to the public), and walk down-stream a few minutes. Climb down into a bowl of mossy rocks that is aproximately across from the end of the small lake, and head down towards a large tree (3" diameter). Climb carefully down around the tree (long fall to the river), down the rope, and head upstream, following a cable up to the belay platform.

Two of the bolts connecting the lengths of cable are sheared off, for some reason, but the bolt hangers are still there. Hmm. Leaves about 100 feet of cable, with one bolt at each end. Don't fall on it.

After our late start and epic approach, we only did one route, Scandi Girl. I really enjoyed it. Stemming up basalt columns, interesting cracks, good stuff. I'll be back.

And, as far as I can tell, the basalt goes on quite a ways, and there is tons of space for more routes.

Does anybody climb here anymore? Whats the development history? It looks like it just got abandoned after a huge amount of work to put up 6 or 7 routes.

[CrackHead Brad]

It's to bad that it was apparently abandoned because with a BIG helmut on, the place could be a fun place to spend a day. The lines look long and steep and you can drive your car essentially to the bungy bridge, allowing the approach to less then 5 minutes if we put some rap anchors just left of the bridge.

The big question is, is the rock any good? Was 'scandi girl' solid? Did you feel sketched out from loose choss?

[ras]

The big question is, is the rock any good? Was 'scandi girl' solid? Did you feel sketched out from loose choss?

There was nothing on the route that was "loose", i.e., that moved or vibrated when thumped with the hand.

Also, there was nothing I thought I could have pulled off the rock, even if I was trying.

The basalt is a little fissured, and some pieces of the columns look like they might have deep cracks behind them that disconnect them from their neighbour columns to the side, but the column itself looks intact at top and bottom. Definitely not loose, but whether enough climbers hauling on it could pull it off, I'm not going to pretend I can look at a partially disconnected basalt column and guage its strength!

The guide said there is loose rock at the top, though looking around the top from the anchors of Scandi it looked reasonably solid. Maybe my concept of reasonably solid is influenced by mostly having climbed lime and sandstone, though.

Problem with rap anchors is they help getting down, but not getting up. Don't think any of the routes top out.

[kirk]

I climbed at the basalt a couple of years ago, the routes were fun, but the rock was razor sharp and we left with a core shot in the middle of our lead rope and a big nick in our rap line.
BE SUPER CAREFUL IF YOU CLIMB THERE.
I've since heard that Gary who put up the climbs does not recommend it because of some rockfall incidents, so personally, i'd rather drive to devils tower next time i want to climb basalt.

[Marty]

Digging up a super old post here...

On Monday two buddies and I went through the same adventure as ras. Just a few comments on this climbing area for anyone that may be interested in heading out there:

♠ The Swiss Family Robinson contraption is SUPER sketchy. We climbed the rock behind it instead and set up a top rope on a tree to access the fixed cables. Just take the bungee bridge... WAY easier.
♠ As ras mentioned, the bolts on the south end of the fixed cable are sheared, kinda sketchy (we didn't walk out though, so I can't say anything about the south-end access/exit.
♠ Climbed Scandi Girl and continued on trad to top out on the trails above.
♠ The sharp rock is just plain scary as kirk pointed out. Scandi Girl wandered between a few of the columns, leaving the rope to rub up against the exposed sharp edge of the columns in between. Don't think I'd return for this reason... scary.
♠ The rock seems solid enough though and perhaps some retro bolting could fix the scary rope drag/damage (again I'm not a geologist, so an educated opinion would be helpful here).

Beautiful area though... shame it feels sketchy.

[Sunday]

I was up there the same day you were, as the Bungie workers told us. We went up the 5.9 (fattest american??) and topped it out past the chains. The bolts near the anchor didn't look like they were in large chunks of rock and I didn't want to take a lead fall on them... Maybe I'm just a granite snob though.

Swiss family robinson was something else! ... not recomended

Pro's of the area: - Different
- Easy access (whistler bungy)
- The lake at the top is perfect for swimming.

Cons - I really didn't want to drop a rock on my belayer...

[bigwalldirtbag]

friend of mine had a very close call with rock fall, when we were climbing there last year! WHERE HELMETS AND BE AWARE!!
other then that we found the aproach to be in really bad shape, the rock chossy but solid for the most part, excluding the tops. could be nice with a bit of work.

[Brendan]

friend of mine had a very close call with rock fall, when we were climbing there last year! WHERE HELMETS AND BE AWARE!!
other then that we found the aproach to be in really bad shape, the rock chossy but solid for the most part, excluding the tops. could be nice with a bit of work.

Sounds like the alpine.

[mccrackin]

I'm the guy who put up a lot of the routes at the Basalt but I haven't been back since moving in '99. I recommend climbing there but you've got to wear a helmet and know what you're doing. There was one sketchy climb that started from the top of a big block. Scary. When I bolted and climbed "Scandi Girl" I had no issues with sharp rock but I used long runners where needed. The rockfall incident happened while cleaning a route that became "56 Stitches and a Broken Jaw". Good short climb. I don't know anything about the access now but a little work and a few stations couldn't hurt.

If you're going there you might want to check out a few other climbs at the appropriately named Secret Cliff. Park at the kayakers pullout and hike down to the river. Follow a faint trail upriver (to the right) along the cliffband. There used to be some rope strung between trees that I used as a handrail. After a few minutes you'll come to 4 bolted climbs, all slightly overhanging and all rated 11-. Could be dirty but should be solid. It's possible to rap in from above if you find the right tree.

Gary