Spring Cleaning

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Tenn
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by Tenn » Wed Apr 06, 2011 6:26 pm

Nice work BK! Thanks. Yos pillar left side was something that had occurred to me to clean up - you beat me to it. Drove by there the other day. Pretty sure that area looks a lot cleaner. Nice twin to Milk Run now. Can't wait to get on your entire spring list.

damien
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by damien » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:21 am

Awesome, can't wait to get on the clean-ups. Thanks for your hard work and effort.

Incidentally, I am pretty sure if you fall and deck you can't get higher than a factor 1 fall.
a factor 2 potential onto the belay.
...unless you can then tumble by the belayer and enjoy a part II to your fall. Either way not a good prospect.

Keep cleaning,
D

BK
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by BK » Fri Apr 08, 2011 7:45 am

I clear cut the landing so there's nothing to stop you sailing for the full meal deal. I guess i should have left the trees as "pro" huh?

Incidentally, the belay here at hte base of the headwall is a 4" cedar. I really think a protection bolt is in order here, and while your at it a proper belay.

damien
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by damien » Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:52 pm

Eek!

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Optimally-Primed
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by Optimally-Primed » Sun Apr 10, 2011 5:59 pm

BK,

Amazing work. All great contributions! Can't wait to get on them. I thought about cleaning YOS P LS to make Milk Road mid-5.10. But Milk Run was already clean and I was tired. I'm glad you did it. Any idea of whether it could be linked into Milk Road to make for a 10c wall climb with a mountainy feel?

OP

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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by Anonymous climber » Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:54 pm

Hey BK, while you are at it, why do`nt you add a bolt to the start of Clean Corner...same deal...rotton cedar stump and factor 2...surely you remember it. Wild didnt have the balls to do it but seems like your the man for the job. Just kidding!!

BK
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by BK » Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:35 am

Clean corner - you're absolutely right! I'd forgotten about that stump and I bet its a lot worse off now! Same story totally. These are classic situations where old routes need to be tweaked a bit for the good of humanity. The question is.... do we really have to track down Dick Willmot and Dick Stratten to get permission to drill? (Same guys that put up Snake by the way. Easterners I think.)

Dru
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by Dru » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:57 am

Dick Willmott's son Derek is teaching in Smithers, you could always ask him how to get in touch with his dad.

Tricouni
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by Tricouni » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:08 pm

Dru wrote:Dick Willmott's son Derek is teaching in Smithers, you could always ask him how to get in touch with his dad.
I have an email address for Dick Willmott. Email me if interested.
Glenn

BK
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by BK » Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:55 pm

I'm out of bolts. someone else may be interested.

fist crack
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by fist crack » Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:24 pm

Hey BK
I have bolts I can give you.

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Optimally-Primed
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by Optimally-Primed » Tue Apr 12, 2011 10:27 pm

YPLS before:
Image

BK
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by BK » Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:08 am

Nce looking adventure climb. I can picture Anders doing rope throw's and hammer toss's all over it!

That reminds me, if some one wants to put up a nice little 11c tips lie back, there's a nice variation half way up. Go up and scrub it while my ropes are still there. It looks a bit like the fifth wheel on freeway.

cmoorhead
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by cmoorhead » Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:18 pm

No bolts on clean corner please!

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BlahMatt
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Re: Spring Cleaning

Post by BlahMatt » Thu Apr 14, 2011 6:17 am

cmoorhead wrote:No bolts on clean corner please!
Seconded!

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